Bill's Travel Adventures (Chapters 1-21)
Chapter 1. TANZANIA (Kilimanjaro and Safari)
(March 7th - March 21st, 2006)
Why Tanzania for my "first ever" trip outside the United States ??? One of my favorite questions to ask fellow travelers is for them to guess which country was first in the 125+ countries that I have visited. No one has ever guessed Tanzania. When I decided to travel I enlisted GOOGLE to help with my decision regarding where to visit. I searched "Where to travel at 50 years old" and it was almost unanimous that climbing Kilimanjaro in Tanazania was the #1 place to go. I assume climbing Kilimanjaro must be related to a midlife crisis for 50+ year old mature travelers. Further research revealed that most of the advertised 6 day Kilimanjaro treks were $3500 and up. Definitely not in my budget. My continued persistence paid off as I finally found a local tour company in Tanzania that charged only $1200. I would find out later that the majority of companies advertising Kilimanjaro would subcontract out to this same local company. After finding a relatively inexpensive ($1200) flight which involved approximately 24 hours of flight time, I then began my hiking preparation. Finding the necessary clothing and a backpack that would fit my needs was outlined by the tour company. My biggest difficulty would be training for the Kilimanjaro summit which is 5895 meters or 19,340 feet. I was currently living in Natchez, Mississippi which has NO mountains to practice on and whose elevation is 217 feet. My only option was to hike up and down Roth hill on the Mississippi River which I did for several hours each day. Not ideal but good for getting the legs in shape and the cardio, while not at a significant altitude, would be beneficial.
As the day to fly to Tanzania approached I started experiencing a multitude of emotions. Anxiety and fear of stepping outside my comfort zone were a constant companion but the excitement of new beginnings and challenges helped me overcome those. This would become a recurring theme EVERY TRIP over the next 16 years.
" A life half-lived in fear is a life half-lived. "
Spanish proverb
KILIMANJARO, TANZANIA
March 7th and 8th, 2006. (Houston to Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro)
MACHAME GATE (1800 Meters) to MACHAME HUT (3100 Meters)
Friday March 10, 2006
Saturday March 11, 2006
Sunday March 12, 2006
Monday March 13, 2006
Tuesday March 14, 2006
March 15-17th, 2006
But now you have to get down. You have been climbing for 6 days and now you go down using muscles that you have not been using. Everyone goes up different routes but everyone goes down the same way which is very rocky and uncomfortable. Now the sun is up and the ice on the ground is melting and you are slipping and sliding all the way down back to the camp. After several hours of walking, you arrive at camp and they let you sleep for 1.5 hours. Then they pack up the camp, eat a quick lunch and you walk down for another 5 hours. We had walked up 4000 feet and down 11,000 feet in one day. We finally made it to the Mweka Hut and had a celebration beer or beers. We tipped our porters and guides who amazingly carried all of our supplies up this mountain.
The next day we got our certifications from the Park Ranger stating we had actually summited and went back to the hotel. Tomorrow I go on Safari.
Lake Manyara National Park is a protected area in Tanzania's Arusha and Manyara Regions, situated between Lake Manyara and the Great Rift Valley.It is administered by the Tanzania National Parks Authority, and covers an area of 325 km 2 (125 sq mi) including about 230 km 2 (89 sq mi) lake surface. More than 350 bird species have been observed on the lake.. Wikipedia
March 19-20th, 2006
Lake Manyara was not my favorite National Park but was my favorite lodge. A baboon was actually outside below my 2nd floor balcony, which leads to my story. On checking in we were told to keep our balcony doors locked. The morning after check in I went out on my balcony to see the sights, closed my balcony door and went to breakfast. Someone in the hotel starting screaming and asking who was in room 223 because a baboon was in the room. My room of course. He was removed by hotel personnel. They come into the rooms looking for food I was told and I had forgotten the "lock the balcony door" rule. We did 2 safaris here, one in the afternoon and another early in the morning before driving to the Ngorongoro Crater. We saw lots of animals but Lake Manyara is famous for its birds. My guide told me that he had to learn to distinguish all the bird species to become a certified guide.
(3) NGORONGORO CRATER
The Ngorongoro Crater in Northern Tanzania, once a gigantic volcano, is the largest intact caldera in the world. Some maintain that before it erupted, it would have been higher than Mt Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa.
Today, long since having collapsed and eroded, it is an extensive highland area with the famous 600 m deep Ngorongoro Crater as its focal point. Nearly three million years old, the ancient caldera shelters one of the most beautiful wildlife havens on earth.
March 20-21st, 2006.
Paris, France's capital, is a major European city and a global center for art, fashion, gastronomy and culture. Its 19th-century cityscape is crisscrossed by wide boulevards and the River Seine. Beyond such landmarks as the Eiffel Tower and the 12th-century, Gothic Notre-Dame cathedral, the city is known for its cafe culture and designer boutiques along the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. ― Google
September 6, 2006
I was very excited to be visiting Paris as the 1st stop on my 2 month European adventure. All my life there were movies and books that portrayed Paris as this romantic destination that must be visited. However, being a typical American I suffered from a lack of foreign languages. Paris has always been portrayed as unkind to American tourists and I was somewhat fearful of the language barrier. Fortunately that turned out not to be a major problem. As I would learn in my travels, most people around the world speak at least some English, especially in tourist destinations. In France, they prefer you to speak English rather than "massacre " their language, as I was told.
After visiting the Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower, I walked down the Champs-Elysees and through the Tuileries Garden to the Louvre. Once the largest palace in the world and now the largest museum in the world, it is the home of the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo. It contains over 400,000 works of art, 35,000 of which are on permanent display. I spent several hours in the Louvre and then it was only a 15 minute walk along the Seine River to the Notre Dame Cathedral.
Notre Dame Cathedral is the 3rd largest Gothic cathedral after Rome's St. Peter's and Canterbury Cathedral and the first to use flying buttresses. It is known for its unrivaled stained-glass windows and sculptures. The beautiful stained glass windows were removed piece by piece during both world wars and put in a safe place. I paid the 7.50 euro to climb the 376 steps to the bell tower (No Quasimodo) for an amazing view of Paris and up close view of its famous gargoyles. Later that evening I took the METRO back to the Eiffel Tower to see it lit up. The 1st 10 minutes every hour after 10 pm it blinks. Impressive. Lots of musicians getting on metro playing music and requesting tips.
September 7, 2006
Today I visited the Chateau De Versailles which was home of one of the most flamboyant courts and opulent palaces since the fall of the Roman Empire. It was constructed mostly by Louis XIV between 1661 to his death in 1715. Its most memorable room is the 236 foot long Hall of Mirrors. The renovations of the 800 hectare Gardens began in 1661 and lasted over 40 years. After visiting Versailles I spent the day walking along the Seine River and had a glass of wine on a "barge restaurant". Later that evening I visited the Latin Quarter and listened to some great jazz. (Felt like I was in New Orleans)
Last day in Paris. I strolled down the Seine River and visited Montmarte District where the Sacred Coeur Basilica is located. There are amazing views of Paris from the Basilica as it is the highest place in Paris. The Moulin Rouge is also located in Montmarte. I also visited the Picasso Museum but Monet was my favorite. Late overnight train to Madrid to save hotel room expense. Saying that the recliner seat was uncomfortable would be an understatement. Enjoyed Paris. Exciting beginning to this 2 month "whirlwind" adventure.
Madrid, Spain
September 9th and 10th, 2006
Madrid, Spain's central capital, is a city of elegant boulevards and expansive, manicured parks. It was beautiful and supposedly the cleanest city in Europe. Not as exciting as I had hoped but the fact that it rained both days and I was there on a Sunday and Monday may have been contributing factors. The Mayor Plaza, where my budget hotel was located, was especially nice and there were sidewalk cafes everywhere. It rained too much to take many pictures. After checking out Monday, I still had 10 hours until my late overnight train to Barcelona. It was still raining so I spent most of the day on the Hop-On, Hop-Off bus to see the sights and stay dry. Hop-On, Hop-Off or HOHO tours are a convenient and hassle-free way to see all the top attractions in a city. I splurged and had dinner at the Hard Rock Cafe.
Barcelona, Spain
September 11, 2006
September 14, 2006
Only spending a few hours in Cannes so I walked to the harbour and saw where they have the Cannes Film Festival. Then back on the train to Nice. After checking into my budget hotel, I took the Hop-On, Hop-Off bus to see the sights. It started raining so my "hopping off " was limited. Then to my room for much needed rest and KFC for dinner. (Yum)
I spent a few hours walking around Monte Carlo dazzled by its beauty and opulence. The principality of Monaco, which is smaller than London's Hyde Park, is famous for its yachts and Rolls-Royces. I took a picture of a Rolls-Royce sitting next to a Smart car in front of the Grand Casino. I guess you arrive in one and leave in the other. lol Before catching the late train to Venice, I did visit the Grand Casino and won 75 euros. (Won 125 euro on Black Jack , Lost 50 euros on Poker Slots) I was shocked they let this poor backpacker dressed in jeans and carrying a backpack in the Grand Casino but it was morning and assume the "rich" people were still sleeping or lounging on their yachts. 😆
Venice, Italy
Venice, the capital of northern Italy’s Veneto region, is built on more than 100 small islands in a lagoon in the Adriatic Sea. It has no roads, just canals – including the Grand Canal thoroughfare – lined with Renaissance and Gothic palaces. The central square, Piazza San Marco, contains St. Mark’s Basilica, which is tiled with Byzantine mosaics, and the Campanile bell tower offering views of the city’s red roofs. ― Google
September 16, 2006
I just arrived in Venice early morning after spending the night traveling on the train in a sleeper car from Monaco. Venice was beautiful but after 4-5 hours you pretty much have seen almost everything. Guess since I was traveling alone, I did not or chose not to grasp the romantic atmosphere that Venice typically portrays. I did enjoy watching the gondolas navigate the narrow canals using 1 oar and today solely used for tourists at a hefty price. The gondolas are very beautiful and the unmistakable symbol of Venice. I was supposed to stay 2 nights but only stayed one at my hotel located near St. Mark’s Square. Venice is very expensive and truly can be seen in 1 day if short on travel time. Many backpackers arrive early in morning, check their backpack at the train station, and spend the day in Venice. Then back on the train to visit another place. The streets are narrow, not straight and the street names change every 50 feet. Everyone is lost. The Piazza San Marco {St. Mark's Square} is impressive as is St. Mark's Basilica. Watch out for the pigeons.
Munich, Germany
Munich, Bavaria’s capital, is home to centuries-old buildings and numerous museums. The city is known for its annual Oktoberfest celebration and its beer halls, including the famed Hofbräuhaus, founded in 1589. In the Altstadt (Old Town), central Marienplatz square contains landmarks such as Neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (town hall), with a popular glockenspiel show that chimes and reenacts stories from the 16th century. ― Google
September 17, 2006
September 18, 2006
Today I visited Neuschwanstein Castle outside of Furren, Germany, which was the prototype used by Walt Disney for Sleeping Beauty and the Magic Kingdom. This was one of three castles built by Mad King Ludwig and was built on an isolated rock ledge amid heart-stopping scenery. The Hohenschwangau is nearby and where Ludwig lived while overseeing the work of Neuschwanstein. I hiked on a trail above Neuschwanstein Castle to get some great pictures. Breathtaking and picturesque came to mind.
Salzburg is an Austrian city on the border of Germany, with views of the Eastern Alps. The city is divided by the Salzach River, with medieval and baroque buildings of the pedestrian Altstadt (Old City) on its left bank, facing the 19th-century Neustadt (New City) on its right. The Altstadt birthplace of famed composer Mozart is preserved as a museum displaying his childhood instruments. ― Google
September 20, 2006
My day trip to Salzburg, Austria was just as expected. The train from Munich only took 1.5 hours. It was a beautiful old town set in the mountains with that "Sound of Music" vibe. I walked up to the Castle overlooking Salzburg. An amazing puppet museum was located inside the castle. There was a scenic hiking trail from the Castle back down to the Old Town. I also visited the Residenz Fountain with its 4 water spouting horses built between 1658 and 1661. Then back on the train to Munich to await my late night overnight train to Florence, Italy at 23:40 pm.
Florence, Italy
Florence, capital of Italy’s Tuscany region, is home to many masterpieces of Renaissance art and architecture. One of its most iconic sights is the Duomo, a cathedral with a terracotta-tiled dome engineered by Brunelleschi and a bell tower by Giotto. The Galleria dell'Accademia displays Michelangelo’s “David” sculpture. The Uffizi Gallery exhibits Botticelli’s “The Birth of Venus” and da Vinci’s “Annunciation.” ― Google
September 21, 2006
My overnight train from Munich arrived in Florence at 9:30 am. My hotel was only 1 block from the train station which is very convenient and close to most of the tourist attractions. After checking in, I went to the Academia and waited for 2 hours in line.
The Statute of David picture on my blog was taken in the Academia. You are not allowed to take pictures but I carefully snapped a few pictures without being noticed. The other statutes were in various piazzas. Afterwards I went to the Uffizi Gallery to see the "Old Masters" paintings which is not my thing. Another 1.5 hours in line for the ticket. At night I visited the various Piazzas and watched various street artists perform and do my favorite thing, PEOPLE WATCH.
The Il Duomo {The Cathedral of Santa Maria Del Fiori} boasts an enormous octagonal dome which was the largest in the world when built. The bronze doors at the baptistry in the piazza are called the Doors of Paradise. Eating gelato was my favorite thing to do in Italy. It is said that you are never more than 20 feet from a shop selling gelato at any time in Italy.
September 22, 2006
This morning I did a Hop-On, Hop-Off bus tour but it wasn't a great idea as most tourist sights are not bus accessible. Florence is very walkable and the best way to see most sights. That evening I went to Piazzale de Michelangelo which overlooks Florence and has amazing views at sunset. My favorite thing so far on this trip. Florence looked magical as we sat on the steps sipping wine, eating pizza, listening to local musicians and watching the sunset. There are amazing views of Florence with the Duomo dominating the skyline. There are also great views of the Arno River and its bridges.
Florence was my favorite city in all of Europe. My favorite thing was sitting in the piazzas, grabbing a bite to eat, having a glass of wine and watching the people go through their every day lives. It is a very beautiful and walkable city and the piazzas and nearby streets are washed by street cleaners nightly. There are many sidewalk cafes in the piazzas where you can wine and dine and enjoy the ambience and which typically carries a slightly inflated price. The Piazza Della Signoria was one of my favorites. Several beautiful statutes including a Statue of David replica, the Fountain of Neptune and Perseus with the head of Medusa decorate the Piazza which is located next to the Uffizzi Gallery.
Cinque Terre (5 Villages)
Cinque Terre is a string of centuries-old seaside villages on the rugged Italian Riviera coastline. In each of the 5 towns, colorful houses and vineyards cling to steep terraces, harbors are filled with fishing boats and trattorias turn out seafood specialties along with the Liguria region’s famous sauce, pesto. The Sentiero Azzurro cliffside hiking trail links the villages and offers sweeping sea vistas. ― Google
Saturday , September 23, 2006
September 25, 2006
Today I visited Vernazza and enjoyed the coast. Last day here, this trip. Living "la dolce vita", the sweet life. Vernazza is located on a peninsula that juts out into the Mediterranean. It is the most lively of the 5 villages and can be really crowded when tourists from nearby cruise ships arrive at La Spezia and bus or take the train to visit Cinque Terre.
My last night so I splurged at a restaurant in Riomaggiore where my hostel was located. I ordered the sea bass and house wine. The waitress was so beautiful that I ordered again. (Shrimp and more wine) Guess I could have just ordered another glass of wine but I panicked. Lol I spent more on dinner that night than 2 nights accomodation at the hostel. Italy is teaching me to live in the moment and enjoy life.
Tuscany, Italy (Siena, San Gimignano & Monteriggioni)
Rome, Italy
October 1, 2006
October 2, 2006
This morning I went to the Vatican City, the world's smallest independent state. It is accessed through St. Peter's Square, surrounded by an elliptical colonade with some 140 saints on top. Straight ahead is St. Peter's Basilica, the center of world Catholicism. The Swiss Guard protect the Vatican. St. Peter's Basilica is the most beautiful church I have ever seen. The interior of St. Peter’s is filled with many masterpieces of Renaissance and Baroque art, among the most famous of which include Michelangelo’s Pietà and the Baldachin by Bernini over the main alter.
After St. Peter's Basilica I visited the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. The ceiling in the Sistine Chapel was painted by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512. You are not allowed to take pictures inside the Sistine Chapel. I did manage to get a couple of shots, including Adam and Eve being cast out of the Garden of Eden, before they threatened to confiscate my camera.
The Spanish Steps is the place to be at sunset with a great view of Rome's 7 hills. It is located in the Piazza di Spagna. It is called the Spanish Steps because the Spanish Embassy is located nearby.
October 3, 2006
Sorrento, Italy (Amalfi Coast)
The Amalfi Coast is a 50-kilometer stretch of coastline along the southern edge of Italy’s Sorrentine Peninsula, in the Campania region. It’s a popular holiday destination, with sheer cliffs and a rugged shoreline dotted with small beaches and pastel-colored fishing villages. The coastal road between the port city of Salerno and clifftop Sorrento winds past grand villas, terraced vineyards and cliffside lemon groves. ― Google
October 4-7th, 2006
I caught the train from Rome to Naples and then the local train (Circumvesuviana) to Sorrento. My guidebook said that Naples was the pickpocket capital of the world. But after my Rome encounter I believed I was prepared. I wasn't. After getting on the crowded local train between Naples and sorrento I felt a bump. I immediately looked and my front pocket was unbuttoned , my wallet gone and the pickpocket was stepping out of the train. 3 seconds was all it took. Fortunately I only had 20 euros in it. I keep my cash, credit cards and passport in a moneybelt now.
Sorrento was very touristy but beautiful. It is famous for its lemons and lemoncello, a lemon flavored liqueur.
I was based to Sorrento but did several day trips. I caught the boat from Sorrento to Positano to see the sights. Positano is the most beautiful of the towns on the Amalfi Coast with its black sand beach and multi-colored houses clinging to the cliffside. Supposedly the bus ride high above the coastline is one of the great experiences here but I did not have the opportunity to see for myself. I also went to Ravello which had amazing views.
October 7th, 8th and 9th, 2006
Train to Bari, Italy where I spent the night. Then overnight ferry to Patras, Greece. Left the ferry and caught the train to Athens. I am only spending enough time in Athens to see the Acropolis and the Parthenon and then catch the overnight ferry to Ios. I met an interesting man who is about 80 on the train and we still correspond by mail every few months.
Santorini, Greece
Santorini is one of the Cyclades islands in the Aegean Sea. It was devastated by a volcanic eruption in the 16th century BC, forever shaping its rugged landscape. The whitewashed, cubiform houses of its 2 principal towns, Fira and Oia, cling to cliffs above an underwater caldera (crater). They overlook the sea, small islands to the west and beaches made up of black, red and white lava pebbles. ― Google
October 12-15th, 2006
I spent 3 days just enjoying the beauty that is Santorini. Standing on the edge of the Caldera overlooking the Aegean Sea was truly spectacular. Around 1620 B.C. one of the largest volcanic eruptions in the past 10,000 years created what is now Santorini and the caldera. Friday I took the bus to Oia, a beautiful village on Santorini, which supposedly has the most beautiful sunset in the world. Over 200 people waited with cameras for that perfect sunset but unfortunately it was too cloudy. Santorini is all about money with jewelry stores and expensive restaurants lining the caldera. Cruise ships provide eager rich tourists with money to spend. Lots of cruise ships arriving daily. One interesting fact is that the grape vineyards here do not put their grapes on poles but instead place the vines in a circle on the volcanic soil to help with the moisture.
Sunday October 15, 2006
Crete, Greece
October 15-17th , 2006
October 20, 2006 (Murren and Gimmelwald, Switzerland)
I got off the cable car at the 1st stop from Schilthorn to visit the village of Murren. It is a typical small Swiss village on the mountainside. It has restaurants and hotels which makes it tourist friendly. A good place to stay in the Alps can be hard to find.
Later I walked down to Gimmelwald which is much smaller with only one bed and breakfast, no restaurants and the Mountain Hostel which has probably one of the best views in the Alps. Since Gimmelwald is not too far up the mountain from Murren, it is easy to get supplies and food in Murren when staying here.
Bern, Switzerland
October 21, 2006
October 21, 2006
Jungfrau Region
Thursday October 26, 2007. (Skydiving from helicopter)
Interlaken is one of the most beautiful towns that I have ever seen. I came here for 3 days and stayed 9 days. Set in the middle of the Alps, it is a town of about 20,000 people and has a beautiful river running right through the center of town. It also has two lakes on both sides of it, therefore the name Interlaken. Ursula and Chris at Rugenpark Hostel made me feel like I was at home. I probably would have stayed longer except they were closing for the month of November. Ursula gave me a box of chocolates as a going away present. Train to Milan at 9 am and then connecting train to Lake Como, Italy.
October 28th, 2006
Overnight train to Milan and switched trains to visit Como, Italy. Then I took a cruise on beautiful Lake Como, called the most beautiful lake in the world by many. Lake Como is the playground of the rich and famous. George Clooney and Brad Pitt have homes here. The cruise was about 6 hours and visited several towns.. After the cruise I went back to Milan to catch the overnight (11:35 pm) train to Paris but it was full. I found out from fellow backpacker that sometimes the conductor saves a few couchettes (sleeper) to sell. I checked and fortunately he had one available for 45 euros.Bruges, Belgium
Bruges, the capital of West Flanders in northwest Belgium, is distinguished by its canals, cobbled streets and medieval buildings. Its port, Zeebrugge, is an important center for fishing and European trade. In the city center’s Burg square, the 14th-century Stadhuis (City Hall) has an ornate carved ceiling. Nearby, Markt square features a 13th-century belfry with a 47-bell carillon and 83m tower with panoramic views. ― Google
October 29-31st, 2006
After arriving in Paris the next morning I decided to continue to Bruges, Belgium. Bruges has one of the most beautiful "old towns" that I have seen in Europe. Belgium is famous for beer, lace, chocolate and frites {french fries} , except they use mayo rather than ketchup. Without a doubt Bruges is the most beautiful city I have visited with its pristine Old Town and canals.Amsterdam, Netherlands
Amsterdam is the Netherlands’ capital, known for its artistic heritage, elaborate canal system and narrow houses with gabled facades, legacies of the city’s 17th-century Golden Age. Its Museum District houses the Van Gogh Museum, works by Rembrandt and Vermeer at the Rijksmuseum, and modern art at the Stedelijk. Cycling is key to the city’s character, and there are numerous bike paths. ― Google
October 31, 2006
Woke up at 7am and caught the train to Amsterdam. I have now arrived "full circle" to my starting point, which was my plan. I found my hotel and decided to get a little culture. I visited the Rembrandt and Van Gogh Museums. 4 hours in the museums was my cultural limit. I found a deli that had affordable spaghetti for dinner and went back to the hotel. Did not even realize it was Halloween.
November 1, 2006
I moved from the Hotel Verdi to the Ship Avanti. Bunk beds on this floating ship hostel located in the canals but much closer to downtown and much cheaper. I walked around the Red Light District later that night. It is illegal to take pictures in the Red Light District. You must really be careful taking pictures because plain clothes policemen will appear from nowhere if you try to take pictures of the ladies in the windows. I also stopped in a "cafe" as a curiosity but did not partake of any herbal refreshment since that is just not my thing.
I caught the local bus and went to a small village outside Amsterdam which is known for their windmills. A bus tour would have been 28 euros but the local bus only cost me 7 euros round trip. I also walked to the Red Light District during the day to for a different perspective. Later that day there was a hail storm and 50 mph winds. Not great weather especially since almost everyone rides a bike to work in Amsterdam. The wind was blowing people off their bikes much to the amusement of a few of us who had sought refuge in the local bar.
I was supposed to stay 3 more nights in Amsterdam but changed my flight to November 3rd for $230. Crazy I know but not going to lie, I was homesick. I justified it by saving 3 nights of hotel expense that I no longer have.
I have seen some amazing sights and done some amazing things. But enough us enough. 2 months is a long time moving what seems like nonstop for a beginning traveler. My flight is scheduled for 10:10 am.
I got to the airport at AMS at 8 am. I realized after boarding that I had left my camera at the securtity check. All of my pictures. The stewardess let me go and retrieve it. I had been so careful for 60 days except in Milan and almost lost it getting on the plane. It has been a great trip. Greece and Italy were incredible but Switzerland stole my heart. There is something about waking up in a small village in the middle of the Alps. I got back to Houston at 2pm and my sister's friend, Angie, was there to pick me up. I took my sister, Sandra, and Angie to dinner to thank them for putting me up and taking me to the airport and picking me up. I am glad to be home but at the same time a little sad the adventure is over. Traveling is an addiction and I was already feeling a little withdrawal 8 hrs after landing in Houston. Also, a special thanks to my brother, Morgan, whose European adventures were the basis for my traveling obsession.
"Travel is as much a passion as ambition or love."
L.E. Landon
CHAPTER 3. NEPAL
(March 14th - April 9th, 2007)
Overview
Hiking in the mountains became my passion after Kilimanjaro and Switzerland, so hiking in the Himilayas seemed a natural progression. Who hasn't seen pictures or documentaries of Everest and dreamed of seeing it in person. I've decided it's time to stop dreaming and start doing. This trip will be my 3rd new continent to visit in my newfound "life of travel". (Africa, Europe and Asia)
Trekking to Everest Base Camp
March 14th-16th, 2007
After a 12.5 hr. flight from Newark, NJ, I got to sit in transit at the New Delhi Airport in India for 15 hrs. For some reason it seems that all planes from the U.S. arrive just after the last flight of the day to Nepal. I finally made it to Kathmandu and was picked up at the airport by my tour guide. Then I got to witness the insane traffic of Kathmandu, a city of over 1 million, but only two lanes of traffic in many places from what I witnessed. But that doesn't stop 5 different vehicles from trying to drive side by side, weaving in and out with reckless abandon. My plan is see everything there is to see in Kathmandu tomorrow. Early to bed after 2 hard days of travel to get rejuvenated for sightseeing tomorrow.
Kathmandu, Nepal
March 17, 2007
Today I visited the Pashupatinath Hindu Temple, next to the holy river, the Bagmati, which is a very popular and religous place for Hindus to be cremated. While I was on the other side of the river there were 4 cremation ceremonies happening at the same time. For a moment, life's temporary existence, seemed to stare me in the face as I watched the bodies engulfed in flames. Afterwards I visited Durbar Square which has more than 50 temples, shrines and old palaces within a few blocks. My last stop was to visit the Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple) where lots of monkeys call home. This is one of the most ancient and holy shrines in the Kathmandu Valley and a "must see".
Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2860 m/9380 ft)
Phakding (2610 m/8562 ft) to Namche Bazaar (3535 m/11,597 ft)
March 19, 2007
We left Macherma at 7:30 am and arrived at Gokyo at 11:30. It was a hard trek and a lot of climbing. When we got to Gokyo Lake it was frozen and then we realized that Lakes 4 and 5 which we were supposed to visit tomorrow would also be frozen. Tomorrow we climb to Gokyo RI, the hardest trekking climb in the Himilayas according to Ram. It will give us the best views of Everest and 3 other of the tallest mountains in the world.
March 24, 2007
We left around 6:30 am and everyone was stopping every 20-30 minutes to catch their breath. The climb is almost 700 meters (2300 feet) straight up. The climb was incredibly hard but the view at the summit made it all worth while. The day was beautiful and cloud free. You could see the high winds blowing snow off of the peak of Everest. I do wish the lake had not been frozen because it would have been beautiful in the mountain setting. We summited about 10 am and sat on top and looked at Everest in all its glory. The sun was getting hot so we decided to go down after 30 minutes before the ice started melting and the trails got slippery. Later, I realized I had gotten sunburned. Getting sunburned in the mountains is just as easy as on the beach. Suntan lotion is usually hard to remember at 5 am. We got back at 12:30 pm and I took my 1st shower in 4 days. Heated showers at this altitude are expensive. ($5) I overheard a group of young girls at a table saying, "What is that smell ?" Another girl said, "That is Sarah, she took a shower today." LOL. It's true, you don't notice the smell if no one has taken a shower in a while. Lunch was a tuna fish sandwich and tomato soup. I quickly learned that tuna fish from a can on bread was the only consistent meal on the mountain. Everything else on the menu at the various tea houses is subject to interpretation and not always an appetizing intepretation. After lunch, I visited the "highest bookstore in the world" but only bought Pringles. Great day!!!!Gokyo (4790 m/15,714 ft) to Dragnag (Tangnag) (4700 m/15,419 ft)
March 25, 2007
Late start today (8:30) after almost 12 hours of much needed sleep. 15 hours if you count the afternoon nap. The trek would only be about 3 hours today and not too difficult. However, as usual, Ram's pace was much quicker than mine and I had complained the entire trek about it. Being 30 years younger than me, he probably thought his pace was slow.. He had mentioned a few days earlier that he loved April Fool's Day and today was my day to get even. He was about 50 yards ahead of me when I yelled in pain and fell into the snow clutching my heart. I could hear him running towards me and right before he got to me I jumped up and yelled "April Fool". He laughingly said that it wasn't funny as he was already trying to figure out where to dispose of the body. We arrived at the tea house before lunch but now I have the whole afternoon with nothing to do. The guides play cards but I don't know the games they play nor do I have the inclination to learn.
Dragnag (Tangnag) (4700 m/15,419 ft) to Cho La Pass (5330 m/17,486 ft) to Cho La Pass Resort
Monday March 26, 2007
March 28, 2007
It was very cold last night. Our accomodations at the tea houses consist of 1/4 inch plyboard walls and tin roofs with no heat. Most trekkers stay in the communal room to keep warm until the stove fire goes out or bedtime. My water bottle froze again last night on the nightstand. A warm sleeping bag is essential. We left LaBouche at 6:30 am and arrived at Gorashep at 9:00, I put my clothes in the room and we left 30 minutes later to climb Kalapathar. We summited at 11:40. It was an almost vertical climb and I was exhausted but the view made up for it. At 18,192 feet/5545 meters Kalapathar had one of most amazing views that I have ever seen. From the summit, you can view 4 of the top 10 tallest mountains in the world, Changste {24,770 ft.}, Nuptse {25,850 ft}, Lhotse {27,890 ft} and Everest {29,035 ft}.
It took 1.5 hours to get down as the melting ice made it very slippery. I had a sandwich for lunch at 2 pm and slept for 2 hours before having another sandwich at 5:30 and back to bed. Slept good but did hear yak bells during the night. (think cow bells for reference)
Thursday March 29, 2007
April 3, 2007
I caught the bus from Kathmandu to the rafting headquarters which was about 3 hrs. from Kathmandu. Unfortunately I was not able to take any pictues while rafting. We rafted for 2 days on Class III and Class IV rapids. Lydia, the Swedish girl, was thrown from the raft on the second day. Great fun but the water was freezing.April 4, 2007
This morning we visited the Thara Village which gives a realistic idea of the villages outside of the cities. I especially liked the photo I took of the woman shucking corn while under a mosquito net. There was a tower in the field to look out for rhinos which can damage the crops. I just finished the white water raft trip with my new Swedish friends, Joseph and Lydia, and was dropped off after a 2 hr. ride in the back of a jeep to a town outside Chitwan to meet my guide.April 5, 2007
April 7, 2007
The Island Resort in the Royal Chitwan National Park was very nice. I stayed there for 5 days and 4 nights. There were usually about 50-60 people there but a few days there were only 5 of us. Usually a big group would show up. We bathed elephants, went on elephant safaris, walked through the jungle looking for tigers and rhinos and watched local tribes do custom ritual dances. You have to be ferried in a boat across the river to the island. It was a nice way to wind down after trekking through the Himilayas for 16 days. I will spend 1 more night in a hotel in Kathmandu (8th) before flying home.GOING HOME
April 9, 2007
I leave today after an amazing adventure in the Himalayas. My flight from Kathmandu to Delhi, India leaves at 2:45 p.m. and then a 6 hour layover until my direct flight to New York. Delhi Airport is not where you want a 6 hour layover. Upon arriving in Delhi I was unable to find a reservation desk to get my boarding pass for the flight home but I did hear them calling out names for upcoming flights. I assumed that was the protocol, wait until your name is called. As departure time approached, I noticed a flight screen flashing that my plane was boarding and still no one has called my name. With only 1 flight per day from Delhi to the U.S. , I began to get concerned. Panicked is probably closer to the truth. Finally I found someone who spoke English to help me and it seems the airline did not have me listed as a passenger by error. They wanted me to take another flight the next day (24 hours later) but I refused. Luckily, I got on the plane with 15 minutes to spare and located my seat in the far back of the plane. My bags were not so lucky as there was no time to check them. I was assured they would be sent later.
A few minutes before takeoff, the pilot announced that the plane was completely full BUT he BELIEVED we had enough fuel to make it to New York without refueling. DID HE JUST SAY THAT OUTLOUD.... I was thinking to myself.
Then I heard my name being called, asking me to come to the front of the plane to speak with a stewardess. Immediately I thought I was going to be bumped because the plane was overloaded and I was the last to board. However, as my dad would say, " A blind hog found an acorn." LOL. I was being upgraded to 1st Class for the flight for all the trouble I encountered. Free gourmet food, snacks , drinks and room to sleep for next 12 hours was just what the doctor ordered.
About an hour before arriving in New York, the pilot announced we would be making an unscheduled (emergency) landing at a military base in Canada for fuel. REALLY!!!! Guess he didn't have enough fuel. Fortunately the remainder of the trip was uneventful. Got my bags a week later. Still GREAT TRIP.
Inconveniences are a small price to pay for amazing life experiences.
CHAPTER 4. PERU and BOLIVIA
(May 17 - June 18, 2007)
Overview
My short but amazing trip to Nepal a few months ago did little to curb my insatiable appetite for travel. Obviously it has become an addiction for me, one that I happily welcome.. A new and inexpensive trip to Peru including Machu Picchu, one of 7 Wonders of the World, seemed to be a perfect solution to feed my travel obsession. This would be my 4th continent to visit since beginning my new life of travel. With Peru being so diverse with the Andes Mountains, the Amazon, and desert coastline, finding things to do and see will not be difficult.
Lima, Peru
Lima, the capital of Peru, lies on the country's arid Pacific coast. Though its colonial center is preserved, it's a bustling metropolis and one of South America’s largest cities. The Plaza de Armas and the 16th-century cathedral are the heart of old Lima Centro. ― Google
May 17, 2007
After 2 plane changes in San Jose, Costa Rica and Bogota, Colombia I finally arrived in Lima at 7 pm. My flight to Cusco tomorrow was not until 6 am so I had booked a hostel in Lima for the night. A taxi ride from the airport to Lima was 45 minutes . Unfortunately I only had a few hours to look around Lima since I would need to leave at 3:30 am to make sure I did not miss my flight. I definitely should have booked another night in Lima to explore the sights. Traveling slower is definitely not one of my strengths but is something I must learn to truly appreciate traveling the world. Traveling slower is also much cheaper because it eliminates additional transportation costs.
Cusco, Peru
Cusco, a city in the Peruvian Andes, was once capital of the Inca Empire, and is now known for its archaeological remains and Spanish colonial architecture. Plaza de Armas is the central square in the old city, with arcades, carved wooden balconies and Incan wall ruins. The baroque Santo Domingo Convent was built on top of the Incan Temple of the Sun (Qoricancha), and has archaeological remains of Inca stonework. ― Google
May 18, 2007
After my 50 minute flight to Cusco, I checked into my hostel and went to the Plaza de Armas, the center of activity for Cusco. The altitude (11,152 feet) was immediately noticeable and my breathing was more difficult, especially walking up stairs. I checked out several local travel agents for prices for the Salkantay 5 day/4 night hike to Machu Picchu which ironically is only 7,972 feet high. I found one which included cooks, porters, guides, entrance fee to Machu Picchu, accommodations for one night in Aguas Calientes and the train ride back to Cuzco for only $166. The trip was available for May 21st. By comparison, the Inca Trail which is more famous, is $550 and must be booked 6 months in advance. My research had advised the Salkantay Trail as it is less crowded, much less expensive and more scenic. I also booked a city tour and Sacred Valley tour for the next couple of days.
Saturday May 19, 2007
Sunday May 20, 2007
Tuesday May 22, 2007
I got up at 5 am and left at 6:15 am. Today was very hard and almost straight up. There were some switchback trails which helped. We finally reached the Salkantay Pass which is 4653 meters (15, 265 feet). Then we walked down to 2900 meters. What a day. My legs hurt and my back is sore from my backpack, which is too heavy. I should have invested in the "horseback option" for my backpack but I am too cheap. Everyone else is drinking beer at 4:45 pm and it is starting to get cold and dark. I will pass on the beer and get rest instead. I forgot to put on suntan lotion and my face is starting to burn. Obviously I did not learn my lesson in Nepal a few months ago.Wednesday May 23, 2007
Thursday May 24, 2007
Friday May 25, 2007
May 28th and 29th, 2007
May 30, 2007
June 1, 2007. (BIKING THE "DEATH ROAD")
Arequipa, Peru
Arequipa is the colonial-era capital of Peru’s Arequipa Region. Framed by 3 volcanoes, it's filled with baroque buildings constructed from sillar, a white volcanic stone. Its historic center is anchored by the Plaza de Armas, a stately main square flanked on its north by the 17th-century neoclassical Basilica Cathedral, which houses a museum displaying religious objects and artwork. ― Google
Saturday June 2, 2007.
The girl's body had been wrapped and almost perfectly preserved by the icy temperatures for about 500 years. It was immediately apparent from the remote location of her tomb and from the care and ceremony surrounding her death (as well as the crushing blow to her right eyebrow) that this 12- to 14-year-old girl had been sacrificed to the gods at the summit. For the Incas, mountains were gods who could kill by volcanic eruption, avalanche or climatic catastrophes. These violent deities could only be appeased by sacrifices from their subjects, and the ultimate sacrifice was that of a child. Lonely Planet
This visit was both creepy and intriguing. Besides seeing one of the best preserved mummies in the world, the story was depicted by a video including actors portraying the events and commentary that brought life to this tragic story. Her body is still maintained in a climate controlled enclosure that you can view from all sides.
Chivay, Peru
Tuesday June 5, 2007. (Colca Canyon and Andean Condors)
Took the bus at 6 am to go to Condor Cross. This is the site at the Colca Canyon which is best for viewing the Andean Condors soaring in the Andes. The Condors, about 7 of them, would almost appear out of nowhere catching the updrafts of wind in the canyon. At times they would fly only 15-20 feet over our heads. It was nature at its finest. The Colca Canyon was also very impressive and is at least twice as deep as the Grand Canyon according to the guide. The baby alpaca was the center of attention when we stopped for lunch in the next village. At every stop we were swarmed by locals selling their crafts.
Iquitos, Peru
Iquitos is a Peruvian port city and gateway to the jungle lodges and tribal villages of the northern Amazon. Its district of Belén is known for its massive open-air street market and rustic stilt houses lining the Itaya River. In the historic center, the Main Square (Plaza de Armas) is surrounded by European-influenced buildings dating to the region's turn-of-the-20th-century boom in rubber production. ― Google
June 6, 2007. (Iquitos, Gateway to the Amazon)
I left Arequipa at 11:20 am to fly to Iquitos, Peru to begin my Amazon adventure. I had a 4 hr. layover in Lima but still arrived in Iquitos at 7 pm. I took a taxi (3 wheel motorcycle) to the center of town and found a hostel. My taxi stopped at a street money changer to let me change dollars into soles. I caught him trying to cheat me the 1st time but somehow he shortchanged me again the second time. Lesson learned. The road for the 3 miles to the city from the airport was covered in glass and burning trash. The taxi driver said they were having peaceful demonstrations. I hope I don't see any "peaceful " demonstrations like that. The taxi driver tried to double the price at the end of the ride due to the road conditions he said. I denied his request and just walked away. Going to sleep and will try and find an inexpensive trip down the Amazon tomorrow.June 7, 2007. (Yellow Rose of Texas, Belen District)
Friday June 8, 2007. (Slow Boat Down the Amazon)
Saturday June 9, 2007. (Canoe trip to Camp)
June 9-12th, 2007
I slept pretty well for my 1st night in the jungle. A cabin with no electricity, makeshift toilet, and a mattress with a mosquito net was the extent of my accomodations. My breakfast consisted of Piranha cooked in Banana leaves. It was great though the head was still attached and was a little scary looking with its teeth very noticeable. I am going fishing for Piranha later in the canoe. (I caught 4)
While in the Amazon, we walked through the forest while the guide showed me the medicinal plants and what their uses were. We would also fish, mostly for Piranha, in the mornings to have fresh food to eat. We only took two live chickens and vegetables with us to the camp for the week. At night we went looking for Caiman {alligators}. My guide, Raphael, and his friend caught a young Caiman one night and also shot a river rat on the river bank. Then they jumped out of the boat and chased the wounded river rat. This would be their dinner later, NOT MINE. Ending the trip earlier than expected as I got bored. Late afternoon boat back to Iquitos. I now realize I was more interested in seeing more of the Amazon River than the jungle.
Wednesday June 13, 2007
Trujillo and Huanchaco, Peru
June 14th - June 17th, 2007
I caught a flight from Iquitos to Lima and then slept in the airport until my early morning flight to Trujillo.
Trinity College was nearby so I went to see the famous Book of Kells. This book was written by Scottish monks in the 8th century. It is in latin and represents the 1st 4 books of the new testament. The pictures and artistic writing are unbelievable and I cannot imagine how much time it took to create that much detail. Google the "Book of Kells" if you get a chance. I then went to the Long Room which is their library and home to over 700,000 books. Most of them are over 400 years old and in latin.
By this time it was well after 2:00 pm so I checked into the hostel and caught a few hours sleep. Then I walked a few blocks to the Temple Bar District which is Dublin's equivalent of the French Quarter in New Orleans, Louisiana, my home state. With over 1000 pubs in Dublin, I do not see how they get any work done. It is said that there is no walking route across Dublin where you will not pass a PUB. I found a nice pub with original Irish folk music and ordered my first Guinness. It is very dark and takes several minutes for it to settle so that you can drink it. It was quite bitter but by the second pint I could see that this could become an acquired taste. 3rd pint was AWESOME.
I met two girls from England and we tried several other Irish beers and Jameson whiskey. One of the English girls was drinking Jameson and lemonade. Tasted pretty good. I was told by an Irish woman on the plane that I would probably spend a lot of my time in the pubs while in Ireland because that is where the Irish spend their time. I can see that now.
The Irish like to go to the pubs and have craic (pronounced crack). The first time I heard that I was a little surprised and then I learned that craic is good conversation and a good time with friends.
Note: I thought that understanding the language in Ireland would be easier than South America but not so much. I understand every 3rd word of the Irish speaking English and a lot of young and old also speak Gaelic.
"Those who wander are not necessarily lost."
J.R.R. Tolkien
August 29- 31, 2007.
Today I start a 9 day trek around the Ring of Kerry called the Kerry Way. The walking path is 135 miles and begins by walking from Killarney through the Killarney National Park and then along the coastline of the Kerry Peninsula. There are hostels located along the path and hopefully it's well marked. The Kerry Way is supposedly the most beautiful hike in Ireland. Hiking is quickly becoming a passion of mine. Big cities, not so much.
On another note, I finally got the courage to use the hostel's kitchen to store food in the refrigerator. Something about leaving food in there when everyone has access but everything is marked and there doesn't seem to be a problem.
Friday, August 31, 2007. (Killarney to Glencar)
I started walking at 7:30 am from Killarney to Black Valley {22 km. or 14 miles} and got to the Black Valley hostel at 3:00 pm but they were closed until 5:00. The path went by Muckross House and the Torc Waterfall. I decided to keep on walking to the next town. Not the smartest of moves. I arrived in Glencar at 9:00 pm. That is a total of 13.5 hrs walking my first day with only a 10 minutes break for a ham sandwich. The hostel/pub/restaurant was a welcome site. I sat at a table with backpackers from South Africa, Germany, Australia and Ireland sharing travel adventures. Also, the two girls bartending were from Poland. Seems a lot of people from Eastern Europe have come to work in Ireland. I had a big bowl of Irish stew, a few beers and crashed in the dorm.Saturday, September 8, 2007. (IRELAND, Cliffs of Moher)
"As you walk and eat and travel, be where you are, otherwise you will miss most of your life."
Buddha
September 10, 2007. (IRELAND, Galway)
Today I am in Galway. On my blog are a few pictures of Galway which is a university town and supposedly the liveliest of all towns in Ireland. The colorful buildings and the harbor provide amazing postcard scenery. I will know more by tomorrow. I have actually stopped here on two other occasions while changing buses for a few hours and it looks like a lot of fun."Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take but by the places and moments that take our breath away." Unknown
September 11, 2007. (IRELAND, Clifden, Connemara)
Day trip to Clifden which is in the Connemara region. It was a very beautiful town and like most places in Ireland has great music. I also walked the Sky Road which runs above the town and has a great view of the Atlantic Ocean. Afternoon bus back to Galway, then a few of us from the hostel visited the Crane Pub, where local musicians practice their craft.Sunday I take the train back to Oslo and Monday I fly back to Dublin 12 days earlier than planned. The fact that trekking is not possible and Norway is the most expensive country in Europe made going back to Dublin early an easy decision.
"I sought to see the amazing as normal, and the daily as unique, and in that swirling paradox I found the joy of travel."
Mary Poxon
September 18, 2007
Today I took a guided bus tour to Powerscourt House and Gardens, Glendalough, and through the Wicklow Mountains. The Gardens are supposed to be one of the most beautiful in all of Europe. The house and gardens reminded me very much of Versailles to a lesser degree.
September 19, 2007
Easy day walking around enjoying the sights of Dublin. Rainy that afternoon so I took it as a sign to do "much needed" laundry. I am sure everyone on the long flight home will appreciate my clean smelling clothes.
GOING HOME
September 20, 2007
After an amazing trip, I am ready to get back home to see the Family.
" The real treasure, that which we all seek, is never very far; there is no real need to seek it in a distant place, for it lies buried within our own hearts. And yet, there is this strange and persistent fact, that it is only after a journey in a distant region, in a new land, that the way to that treasure becomes clear. "
Heinrich Zimmer
LAGNIAPPE, as we say in Louisiana.
Lagniappe is a creole word meaning 'the gift' or 'to give more'. The practice originated in Louisiana in the 1840's whereby a merchant would give a customer a little something extra at the time of purchase.
While I thoroughly enjoyed the beauty of Norway in 2007, my timing and some adverse weather did not allow me to truly appreciate Norway. My follow up trip in 2015 had much better weather and a few great hiking adventures.
NORWAY (2015)
I caught an early bus for the six hour bus ride to the National Park Village. This will be my base for the one day trek to climb the Tongairiro Crossing which is reputed to be the best one day trek in all New Zealand. There are only a few people at my hostel which makes sleeping easier. The town is a big ski resort and since it is only a few weeks to summer here, things are a little slow until the hikers get here in the summer. Since New Zealand is in the Southern Hemisphere their seasons are opposite of ours in the United States.
I got up early to catch the bus transport to the Crossing but it was SNOWING. No kidding, 2 weeks till summer and it looked like a blizzard for about an hour. The winds also reached about 70 mph throughout the North Island which is where I was. I decided to stay another day and try my luck tomorrow. Not much to do here and there are only 3 local tv stations.
November 15, 2007
November 16-18th.
November 19, 2007. (NEW ZEALAND, Queen Charlotte Track , Day 2)
Today was supposed to be an easy 2-3 hr walk to my next hut. Somehow I missed Naolines Homestay and by the time I realized it (3 large hills and about 2 miles later), I decided to continue to the next place that I had booked. I had started at 9 am and arrived at my next destination (Debritts) at 7 pm and one day early. 35 kilometers (21 miles) in all with the hardest part of the track today. The owners called the place I was supposed to stay and she had been worried because I was 9 hrs late. Another thing I didn't realize, most trekkers or trampers as they say in NZ, let the water taxis carry their baggage from hut to hut so that you don't have to carry all that weight. I thought only a few wimps did this but I found out that I was the 1 in a 100 that carried my own bag which now weighs about 25 lbs.I left at 9 am and was told it would be a 6 hr walk to Anikiwa where the water taxi would pick me up at 4:30 pm. This morning's hike was almost straight up which was not what the doctor ordered after my previous 10 hr day. The views of the Queen Charlotte Sound are so beautiful that you almost don't feel the searing pain in your legs and shoulders. I actually made it at 1:50 pm and had to wait around for a few hrs. So now I have an extra day and decided to go on a half day wine tour through the Marlborough Wine Vineyards. It was $59 NZ and I think I can drink that much wine since we will visit 4 wineries and all tastings are included.
November 21, 2007. (NEW ZEALAND, Marlborough Wine tour)
There were 10 of us on the bus and we visited 4 wineries. The only wine questions any of us had were when were they going to pour the next free wine sample. Great fun was had by all. New Zealand has only been producing wine for about 20 years but there are orchards springing up everywhere.November 22, 2007
Happy Thanksgiving to all. I just arrived in Christchurch after a 6 hr bus ride. Great weather and beautiful country. I went to the Sargeant Peppers Club for dinner and had a great STEAK??? Okay, no turkey and dressing to be found here so steak will be my Thanksgiving meal and definitely a splurge for me. Yes, the Sargeant Pepper Club had Beatles posters everywhere and played Beatles music continuously but was still very good, if not classy. No one really understands the concept of Thanksgiving here. I leave for Queenstown tomorrow and then to Te Anau to start more tramping (trekking).November 23, 2007. (NEW ZEALAND, Mount Cook)
Tenzig Norgay to Sir Edmund Hillary (after summiting Mount Everest)
I left Queenstown on the 7 am bus to Te Anau where I checked into my hostel. Then I took the bus to Milford Sound and arrived in time for the 1:15 pm Milford Sound Cruise. The day was overcast but we still had great views of Milford Sound (which is really a fjord but they never changed the name). We cruised out to the ocean and returned coming within 10 feet of a magnificent waterfall and we also got to see a group of seals basking on the rocks. On the way back it rained quite a bit but as they like to say, "It makes the waterfalls more spectacular."
Back to Te Anau for the night and on to the Kepler Track tomorrow.
I survived the Canyon Swing which is essentially a 200 ft. bungy jump which turns into a giant swinging arch. To get a better idea of this go to canyonswing.co.nz It was quite a rush, kinda like flying. I also climbed to the summit of the Ben Lomond track and the 3 hr climb up rewarded me with some of the best views that I have seen in NZ. Can't wait to post the pictures.
Spent the night in Auckland after taking a cheap ($60) 2 hour flight from Queenstown. Then a 8 am bus to Pahia on the 6th. After the excitement of Queenstown, I was looking forward to spending the last 3 days of my NZ trip laying on the beautiful north beaches and maybe sailing. That was until the rain started while on the bus to Paihia and continued until I arrived back in Auckland . I mostly watched tv and slept. Part of traveling I am quickly learning. One last final night in Auckland before flying to Australia to start my scuba lessons.
I landed in Beijing around 2 pm on September 3rd. The trip involved avoiding evacuation traffic due to Hurricane Gustav from south Louisiana while on my way to Houston, a 6:30 am flight from Houston to Newark which was 3.5 hours long, a 1 hour change of planes in Newark, and a 13 hour flight from Newark direct to Beijing which included flying directly over the North Pole. But considering that it was a free trip using my air miles, it was a great trip. A taxi was a necessity from the airport to my hostel . Once I get situated at the hostel, I will get advice on taking cheaper local transportation.
I was very exhausted since I am unable to sleep on the plane. About 9 pm I finally gave up and went to bed. I heard several people in the dorm getting up and leaving the room and looked at my clock and it was 11:00. How could I have slept so long ??? I jumped up, took a shower, changed clothes and headed down stairs. It seemed too dark to be 11:30 am and it was. It seems I had only slept 2 hours and the people in the dorm were going out drinking. This is not the last stupid thing I will do on this trip but may be the last I share. We'll see.
My hostel, Sitting on City Walls Courtyard House, is located in a hutong. A hutong is a small alleyway which houses many of Beijing's older residents.
September 5, 2008.
Today I took a couple of buses to the Summer Palace about 20 km outside of Beijing. The Summer Palace consists of an enormous lake surrounded by bridges, pagodas, temples and living quarters for royalty during the summer months when Beijing would get too hot. There is a great walking path around the lake and it took almost 3 hours to walk its entirety and visit the sights.
I got up early this morning (6 am) and went with a small tour group to Jinshanling to walk the Great Wall for 10 km (6.2 miles). It doesn't sound like very far until you see the pictures of the walls going up and down the mountains. Jinshanling is much further from Beijing than Badaling, which is the most touristy section, and why I chose it. It is about 80 miles outside of Beijing and the drive was over 2 hours with traffic. When we first got there our guide said that the best thing to do would be take the cable car up to the first tower at the top of the mountain to save 40 minutes of walking. Of course, I then preceded to ask him if it was extra and he said only 40 yuan (about $6) and of course I quickly started up the path walking to the top of the mountain.
About 15 people took the cable car and 4 of us walked. Much to my surprise I beat everyone is our group who took the cable car up to the top of the mountain.
The walk on the wall was very difficult at times and this area shows much of the wall in its deteriorating state and other sections which have been repaired as a conservation effort. There are also very few people hiking this far out which is its allure. Most go closer to Beijing at Badaling to view it and there are actually thousands on the wall at the same time. The entire hike of the wall took about 3.5 hours. At the end you had an option to use a zip line to go across the river and save another 30 minutes walking for 40 Yuan. You KNOW what I did. lol I probably would have done it had I not done the zip line canopy tour a few months earlier in Costa Rica.
The Paralympics athletes and spectators have made finding rooms impossible. I intentionally waited for the Olympics to end to travel to China but did not know about the Paralympics. Since I had no hostel room for Saturday night, after hiking the Great Wall I went to the train station to catch the overnight train to Xian to see the Terracotta Warriors. Unfortunately since I had not planned the train ride earlier there were no sleeper cars for the 9 pm to 8:40 am train ride. So I sat in a hard seat (official name) for 11+ hours. I had a few limited English conversations throughout the night and like always, traveling is just great fun and you make the best of every situation. I did entertain a few of the other travelers, though unintentionally, as I dozed off and fell out of my seat onto the floor.
The Muslim Quarter or Muslim Street is a very famous snack and commercial street. It is really exciting at night with everyone cooking "meat on a stick" and other things which I have no idea what they are. I am planning on being more adventurous than usual and try some of the street food which looks great.
This was to be my first experience traveling overnight on the train in a hard sleeper car. The three options that you have when traveling on the train are soft sleeper, hard sleeper and hard seat. My trip from Beijing to Xi'an for 11 hours (9 pm to 8 am) was a hard seat.
I decided on the 2nd option to save some money but still have a little comfort. I had an idea what the hard sleeper would be like by browsing the internet. 10 compartments in the car with six bunk beds in each compartment. The compartments have no doors so that everyone walking down the hall can see each person. I was fortunate enough to have gotten a bottom bunk as nobody wants a top bunk a few inches from the ceiling, climbing in and out with the ceiling staring at you all the time.
When I got to my bunk, across from me were two elderly Chinese (of course) gentlemen talking and eating fruit. I quickly realized that one of these men was going to have to climb up to the 2nd or 3rd bunk so I offered my bottom bunk for their 2nd level bunk, mostly by pointing and gestures. He was very appreciative. Though it would have been interesting to see how well he did climbing up into that bunk. Probably would have done better than I did for the next 16 hrs. Hoping Karma will remember this. Fortunately, the 2nd bunk seemed to be the best bunk as most people use the bottom bunk to sit on and converse. Food on the train consisted of a variety of noodles which were sold from a cart. At the end of each train car was a hot water dispenser to mix with the dry cup of flavored noodles.
The hard sleeper is exactly as it sounds. It reminded me of a metal ironing board with that thin pad covering it. But I saved an extra $12 by not getting the soft sleeper. As all backpackers know, the more money saved, the more you can travel.
September 14, 2008. (Giant Panda Research and Breeding Center)
This morning I went to see the Giant Pandas. I left early and got to the Center at 8:30 am because pandas just eat and sleep, kind of like babies, and after 10:30 am you won't see much action. The pandas were great fun to watch even though they mostly just eat. I planned on having a picture with a baby panda but when I found out they had raised the price to $175 and that the "baby" pandas were 1 1/2 years old. I elected to go with the 2 1/2 yr old panda which is probably 50 pounds heavier and not as cute but only $135. No brainer. Only one person out of 50 had their picture taken with the "baby" . No one is allowed to touch or take a picture with the real baby pandas.
When it was my turn to take a picture with the Panda, the caretaker told me and another girl to walk across a narrow wooden plank over a steep embankment to where the Pandas are located. They brought in a Panda, sat him down and gave him bamboo to keep him happy. I was positioned behind the Panda, got a few pics and moved away. Then it was the girl's turn but as she got behind the Panda he started growling. The caretaker yelled run and back across the wooden plank we went ....because they are bears. No picture for her, at least with that Panda.
I am skipping the 3 Gorges Yangtze river trip because of info I received that it is no longer what it used to be due to the river rising by such a large amount. Will use that money to try and get to Tibet if I can find the right deal.
Monday, September 15, 2008. (Overnight train to Guilin)
I leave on the overnight train from Chengdu to Guilin at 17:58 this afternoon and will arrive around 21:00 pm tomorrow for a total of about 25 hours in a hard sleeper car. Preparation must be made first which involves going to McDonald's for their cheap lunch meal and then buying 3 cheeseburgers ($1.25 each) for supper and meals for the next day. I also take several moon pie cakes which are only 14 cents each. The train offers hot meals which are on a rolling server which comes down the aisles. I have not recognized any of the food yet other than noodles so I will stick with cold hamburgers until I get a little more courage.
Each compartment does have a tv which shows old kung fu movies that usually have Jackie Chan or Jet Li when they were in their early 20's. I think I have already blogged this but here it is again.
When I booked my train ticket I somehow ended my destination in Liuzhou instead of Guilin so I have to find a way to continue on the train for another 3 hours without getting off the train. I got the people in the hostel to write down in Chinese that I would like to continue to Guilin and purchase an additional ticket. We will see what happens.
I know that sometimes it always seems to be about how cheaply one can travel and how little one can spend, and it is for me. But that is the vehicle that allows backpackers with limited funds to travel more frequently, to more places and for longer periods of time.
Guilin, China
Guilin is a city in southern China known for its dramatic landscape of limestone karst hills. At its center are 2 lakes, Shanhu (Cedar) and Ronghu (Banyan), remaining from a medieval-era moat that once surrounded the city. Boats travel through these and other lakes via connected rivers. On Shanhu Lake’s shore, twin pagodas, the Sun and Moon, light up the sky at night. ― Google
September 16, 2008
After finally arriving in Guilin, I checked into the hostel and got information on the best things to see and cheapest way to do them. I had lunch from the local street vendors for about $1. Not sure what I had but it tasted good. A recurring theme in China. Relaxing day with very little planned.
September 17, 2008. (Seven Star Park )
I laughed at an English couple last night. He mentioned that he was thinking of getting a beer to which she quickly said that then she could get ice cream. When I laughed, he said that she was in charge of the finances and that there was always compromise on how they spend their joint combined money. They were traveling for 1 year so budgeting is serious business.
I spent 5 hours walking around the Seven Star Park in Guilin by the Li River. I really enjoyed the underground caves which were lit up by colorful lights to better illuminate the stalactites and stalagmites.
While still in Seven Star Park I walked up to the top of the karst peak to get a good view of the city. On the way down I found a path that looked as though it has seldom been traveled and of course that is my favorite path. As I walked I started hearing sounds coming from the trees, mostly a rustling of the branches. The more I walked the louder the sounds got and the more frequent. Then I saw a monkey up in the top of one the trees and I thought "how cute". Then there were a couple of monkeys that I noticed in another tree and I thought how fortunate I was to have run into some monkeys. Then the monkeys started to converge on me. The next thing I knew there were monkeys everywhere and they meant business. They were invading my personal space all of a sudden and I was getting a little uncomfortable. One large monkey was only a few feet from me staring me down and showing his teeth.
Then I remembered that I had read somewhere that they were expecting food and that you were supposed to thrust your palms into the air showing that you had no food. It worked much to my relief and they no longer pursued me.
There is a Chinese saying, " One monkey can halt the path of a thousand soldiers." Now I understand what they meant. lol
Longji Rice Terraces
Thursday September 18th, 2008.
This morning I went on a tour to see the Longji Terraces which is 100 km (62 miles) from Guilin. The photographs that I have seen on postcards and posters are unbelievably beautiful. My pictures in no way do them justice so I strongly recommend that you Google "Longji Terraces" to see some truly spectacular photos. I also saw some postcards of the rice terraces with snow on them in the winter which was beautiful. Did not buy the postcards though, no money for postcards and "no room in backpack". My go-to phrase.
September 19, 2008. (CHINA, Li River, Evading River Police on Li River Boat Tour)
This tale began shortly after arriving in Yangshou. I walked down to the tourist area by the Li River just to see what kind of river tour specials there were. It was about 3 pm.
Ok, it is now 3:15 pm and a lady tells me that they have a bamboo boat for only 150 yuan if we leave now since I am by myself. I get her to drop the price to 120 and off we go down to the river where I see this bamboo boat with 3 benches and an umbrella covering. It has a small motor to help it get back upstream. The lady tour guide and I had agreed on the destination but there were a few points which I did not understand completely such as why we were to make an initial 10 minute stop and how I was getting back.
After about 30 minutes of cruising down the river she pointed that we would now be making that 10 minute stop. After she got out of the boat, she motioned for me to follow. When I asked why, she pointed down the river and said "river police". That is when I remembered reading somewhere that it is illegal for fisherman to take passengers up and down the Li River. That is why everyone is on the crowded tour boats.
I smiled and off we went along some dirt path. Our 10 minute path turned into 20 minutes and then finally we ended back up at the river bank. She looked for our boat and the fisherman but he was nowhere in sight. All of a sudden she came back up the bank and started yelling the river police boat was coming towards us. She got on her cell phone and called the fisherman (not the first time they have done this obviously) and off we went down another path to another location. We came upon a boy on a motorcycle and she talked him into taking us to the other river bank further down the river. The sight of the boy, me and the woman tour guide with her umbrella on that little motorcycle going down an old run down concrete path had to be something to behold.
Finally after an hour we were reunited with the boat once again. We cruised for another 2 hours down the Li River and the scenery was stunning. We passed several large cruise boats that were loaded to the brim and they all stared at me in amazement. We reached a local village, I took a few pictures and we headed back upstream.
Now is when the getting back part started to make sense. After 45 minutes upstream we pulled over to another village and she said something about a bus and pointed for me to get off with her. When I looked puzzled, she said "River Police". Enjoying the first police evasion which consisted of walking through rice paddies and riding threesome on a motorcycle was fun but a bus was sounding pretty good right now.
To the bus we went and 45 minutes later I was at my hostel. What a Great Day. The Comorants (duck-like) in the first 2 pictures of my blog are trained by the fishermen. They tie a rope to them including a thin rope around their neck so they can not swallow the fish they catch when the dive underwater. I have seen underwater footage on the Travel Channel showing them swimming underwater and catching fish. Mostly done for tourists now as nets are more efficient.
I was able to witness the large cruise ships which I decided not to take from Guilin to Yangshou. At one point there were 10 ships lined up following closely behind each other cruising down the Li River loaded with passengers. Not my idea of traveling. Maybe others though.
September 21st and 22nd, 2008.
I took the 1 1/2 hour bus to Guilin, then took a 18 hour overnight train to Kunming, walked across the street and then a 6 hour bus to Dali. I am still working on traveling slower but not having a lot of success. I specifically went to Dali because word on the street was that there were cheap trips to Tibet. No Tibet trips in Dali I quickly found out. The Old Towne was very beautiful but touristy. I travel to Lijang tomorrow.
Lijang, China
September 23, 2008
One of the most beautiful cities I have visited in China. Lijang's Old Towne was even more beautiful than Dali and even more touristy. No Tibet travel permits here either. I leave tomorrow to hike Tiger Leaping Gorge which I am sure will be one of the highlights of my trip so far. The first 2 pictures on my blog post were taken very early in the morning. The streets are packed with tourists most of the day and night.
I took the first bus to Quiatou (chow toe) which is the beginning of the trek and arrived at noon. Then I headed out for the 5-6 hour uphill trek which ascends over 900 meters (3000 feet). It was very hot and I soon began to realize that I had not been in the mountains since last November in New Zealand. Many tourists were riding horses with guides leading the horses up the mountain. A local with a horse kept following me up the mountain asking every five minutes if I wanted to ride the horse. He just knew I would not make it but I disappointed him. Most of the trip lies along a narrow ridge which follows the river giving great views of the gorge. The path is narrow enough that you do not dare lose your concentration. There are no guardrails along the path. I spent the night at the Tea Hoyse (yes that is how they spelled tea house). I woke up early the next morning and left before it began getting too hot. The second days trek was mostly downhill and involved walking under a waterfall. The scenery was truly spectacular.
September 26, 2008 (CHINA, Shangri La)
After Tiger Leaping Gorge, I took a minivan for the 3 hour trip to Shangri La (3200 meters high or 10,500 feet). Most tourists do not come this far up and this is as close as you can get to Tibet without actually being there. Most people here are Tibetan. One of my favorite things in Shangri La was that the old and young dance in the city square for 2-3 hours every night. It is not a performance but done for pure enjoyment. The pictures on my blog also include the countryside on the way to Shangri La , the Old Towne, a monastery with the Golden Prayer Wheel and an art cafe.
Kunming, China
Sunday September 27, 2007
I arrived in Kunming at 7 am after a 14 hour sleeper bus from Shangri La. This was my first sleeper bus experience and not the most fun that I have had in China. The bus is lined with upper and lower beds. What I did not know was that in the back of the bus is one giant bed which is for 5 people. Guess who got the middle space in the giant bed. If I had known better I would have requested a single bed. The entire night is made up of jockeying for position and waiting for the next bathroom break, since there is no bathroom on the bus.
I seem to be the only foreigner on most buses and most trains in China. I know visas have been hard to get for some. I was walking around the bus on our first break when a little boy about eight asked me what I was doing on the bus. I quickly realized that most travelers have their own tour buses and that the Chinese almost never have contact with foreigners on local buses. Most of the Chinese that know any English will try and practice it with me when they can. Even walking down the street people will start up a conversation just to hear English.
After arriving, I quickly went and rented a dorm room at a hostel. My next sleeper bus to Luang Prabang, Laos leaves at 6:30 pm today and will last for 32 hrs. Yes, I requested a single bed. The hostel gives me a chance to shower and rest even though it will be shortlived.
The Sleeper Bus from Kunming to Luang Prabang, Laos was once again one of the tests that backpackers endure to travel cheaply. Airfare from Kunming was $550 and 1.5 hours and the sleeper bus was $42 and 32 hours.
I checked out of my room and went to the bus station to catch the sleeper bus at 6:30 pm. I was told that the bus had been canceled. With very little explanation I was told to come back tomorrow. When I insisted on a new ticket she marked out the 27th and put 28th in pen.
I went back and rechecked into my room which I had already paid for but had just stayed in for 8 hrs. Luckily I was not charged again. Tomorrow a new country and new experiences.
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the things you did. "
Mark Twain
September 28-30, 2008. (CHINA, Kunming to Luang Prabang, Laos, sleeper bus)
"The traveler must be born again in the road and earn his passport from the elements."
Thoreau
I arrived at the bus station 2 hours early to make sure there were no cancellations. I was shown to the bus and went in to check out my SINGLE bed. Bed Number 21 was on the back row with 4 other people just like before. I was not happy and let the bus driver know it. I went back to the ticket office and complained with the help of someone who spoke a little English. He went with me back to the bus driver and finally, he assigned me a single bed in the front of the bus. I think it was the backup drivers bed. He was not happy, but when I started asking for a refund, he knew that he had to find a solution.
The positives are that the bed is the most comfortable bed that I have slept in since I left. Also there was air conditioning and Chinese kung fu movies. Jackpot. Arriving at the Laos border was another one of those moments that you wish you were back home. Organized chaos is the only way to describe it. A true oxymoron. Police trying to maintain crowd control but having very little luck with over 300 people trying to get to 3 windows. After over 1 hour in line and seemingly losing ground, a Chinese woman yelled at the policeman and pointed at me and he allowed me to come through.
When I arrived in Luang Prabang I needed to take a tuk tuk (motorcycle taxi) to the Old Towne. I agreed to split the cost with a couple from Shanghai and Beijing who spoke excellent English. When I told them that I was from Louisiana they looked shocked. He said they thought only black people lived in Louisiana. When I asked why he thought that and I am not making this up. He said that when Hurricane Katrina hit New Orleans that the only people they saw on CNN were black people. Amazing the perspective that other people have when they only have limited and controlled exposure to the outside world.
I found a great place to stay which has a private room with a balcony overlooking the Nam River and is only 2 blocks from the Mekong River for $6. There are really no hostels here but private rooms are so cheap. Nice to have a little privacy for a change. Think I am going to like Southeast Asia.
China was great and an AMAZING LIFE EXPERIENCE. I am quickly learning that language does not have to be a barrier that prevents one from traveling as I originally feared.
CHAPTER 8. SOUTHEAST ASIA (Laos, Thailand, Myanmar, Cambodia, Malaysia, Hong Kong)
**** Continuation after China
(September 30 - December 18th, 2008)
Luang Prabang, Laos
September 30, 2008
This is by far my favorite place that I have visited so far on my Asia trip. There are many similarities to Natchez, Mississippi. The town has about 20,000 people, is on the Mekong River and is a very old town with incredible French architecture. Laos used to be a French colony and many people speak French in town. There are many tourists in Old Town but it doesn't seem too crowded. I got up at 5:30 am to watch the monk procession. The monks, approximately 200, walk down the street at 6 am with their large bowls and the locals line up on the sidewalk and put rice mostly but also money and other things as gifts to the monks. Whatever the monks do not use they give to the poor. This happens every morning.
October 1, 2008. (Kuang Si Waterfall)
Today, a group of English, one from Norway and myself went in a tuk tuk about 24 km to the Kuang Si Waterfall. It was a blast. Very high and beautiful waterfall. We climbed to the top of the waterfall and waded out to the edge and took pictures. Then we went downstream and went swimming which included jumping out of a tree into the falls. Afterwards I was sitting next to a couple and they looked American so I asked where they were from and he said Alabama. I was in shock. To run into an American is almost unheard of and for them to be from one of LSU's biggest rivals is another. We both briefly mentioned our upcoming game and then decided to drop it. Sadly, there were also a lot of small Asian bears that were in several enclosures near the waterfall specifically for tourists.
October 2, 2008 (Small waterfall, Big elephants)
I went to the second of two waterfalls outside of Luang Prabang. The waterfalls were much smaller than the previous one but more picturesque. An added benefit was that they bathe the elephants which they hire out for rides in the waterfalls in the evenings.
October 4-7th, 2008. Slow boat for 2 days, LAOS TO THAILAND
I took the slow boat up the Mekong River to Thailand. The current was really strong and the boat kept switching sides of the river to find the least amount of current. There were only 5 tourists on the boat going upstream while boats going downstream were loaded with tourists. Seems we were doing the route counterclockwise. Better for us. After 9 hrs on the boat the first day, we stopped in a small village and spent the night. The river is full of rocks in the middle and you do not want to be traveling on it at night. The next day was 8 hrs but it is a slow peaceful journey and you can watch the many people fishing on the banks of the river with nets. Arrived in Huay Xai which is still on the Laos side at 6 pm, just 30 minutes after the ferry to Thailand had closed. Seems to be timed that away. So another night in Laos.
Mai Sai, Thailand
October 8, 2008
October 9th and 10th, 2008. MYANMAR (Burma) , Police State
I went to the Myanamar border and what a hassle. I had to provide them with 3 pictures of myself and let them keep my passport. They issued a temporary passport and tried to get me to just see the border town of Tachilek and then return to Thailand. When I told them I wanted to go to Bagan they said no. They issued a 14 day visa but there were only 2 towns I could visit with 150 miles. So I went to Chaing Tong. The immigration office marked my temporary visa with the location and then sold me a bus ticket to that location. To enter, I also had to change $100 U.S. into Myanamar currency and give the bus driver my papers until we arrived. I was given seat No. 2 behind the bus driver. On the next bus my seat was also No. 2. Starting to see a pattern. That must be the tourist seat. The seat occupied next to me was a man who kept inquiring about my plans and why I was in Myanamar. Seems some European reporters had been sneaking out video of the military abusing its citizens and reporting it.
Upon arrival at Chaing Kong, the bus driver handed my temporary passport to a taxi driver who took me to an empty hotel for tourists. I was the only person staying there. It is now my belief these are government (military dictatorship) owned hotels just for tourists. The room was $20 a night which is outrageous but there were no other options. Plus the hotels refused to take Myanamar money and only wanted US currency. How bizarre. I was able to go out at night, eat in the local market and have a beer with some local men who were watching what looked like karoake on television and drinking whiskey. The women singing were wearing skirts about knee length but the camera kept zooming in on the legs and ankles and the men would laugh and yell. I guess it was kinda like Myanamar porn. lol
The next morning I decided to go back to Thailand based on my limited ability to travel. When I went to check out they did not have my temporary visa. With almost no English spoken here they finally went to Immigration to get my papers which had been sent there. Don't know why. They asked me where I wanted to go next and marked it again on my papers and drove me to the bus station. They waited while I bought a ticket. 4 roadblocks and 5 hrs later I was at the Thai border at 5:15 pm which closes at 5:30. I cleared Myanamar immigration, got my passport and walked across the bridge to Thailand immigration. As I got to the window I realized I did not complete my departure card. I did that and looked up and the window was closed. Not sure what happens when you are on the bridge between countries and both sides are closed, especially when both sides have men with automatic weapons patrolling the river and crossings.
After yelling for 10 minutes, a man saw me and radioed someone who opened up and let me through. Finally back in Thailand. Leave tomorrow for Mae Hongson.
October 10-11th, 2008 (Overnight in Mai Sai)
Mae Hongson, Thailand
October 11th -13th, 2008 (Day Market)
A beautiful 4 hr bus ride up and down the mountains made the bus ride to Mae Hong Son one of my favorite bus rides so far. I found a hotel, since Southeast Asia has very few hostels, from a flyer handed out by someone at the bus station. A private room with shared bath for a little over $4. There is also free internet so I will try and upload pictures tomorrow. I have been doing the private room for about 10 days now because of the limited options. But most are between 4-6 dollars with a private bath usually.
The hotel has incredible views of the lake and temple. It is also convenient to everything. May stay here a few days and recharge. Busing and changing locations frequently is tiresome and also is a major expense.
I took pictures at the day market for my grandkids.The first is for Madison because I knew she would love the cute bunnies. The 2nd picture was of fried insects which you could sample if you wanted. There were crickets, roaches, grub worms and a few I did not recognize. I passed on the sampling. Thought Kade would get a kick out of it.
Sukhothai, Thailand
Sukhothai Historical Park covers the ruins of Sukhothai, literally 'dawn of happiness', capital of the Sukhothai Kingdom in the 13th and 14th centuries, in north central Thailand. It is near the city of Sukhothai, capital of Sukhothai Province. Wikipedia
October 13, 2008
I came here to see the old city because it was Thailand's first capital. The ruins were spectacular. It is said that much is lost due to the fact that we do not perceive the religious significance of this area and I am sure that is true. I leave tomorrow for Bangkok but may just stay the night and head to Cambodia. I will be coming back through Bangkok two more times on my trip. Once passing through to south Thailand and once to fly to Hong Kong for my return.
October 14, 2008
Overnight in Bangkok to prepare for early morning bus to Siem Reap to visit Angkor Wat in Cambodia.
Siem Reap, Cambodia
Wednesday October 15 - 18th, 2008
After 5 hrs on the worst road that I have ever been on I finally arrived in Siem Reap. It is the hub for everything that is Angkor Wat which is called the 8th Wonder of the World by some. I hope to stay here for a few days and recharge. Then make plans to visit Angkor Wat. There are 1 day, 3 day and week long admission tickets. The area is immense with so many different temples to see but I think that after a few of the biggest ones including Angkor Wat I will have seen enough. Seeing Angkor Wat is up there almost as much as seeing the Great Wall. But for now rest and relaxation for a few days.
Like in Thailand, there were many "spirit house" located in front of many businesses and houses and come in many shapes, sizes and colors. They are supposed to be a home for friendly spirits who will bestow blessings on them and remain outside the house in comfort. Many times food, water and flowers are left on the houses for the spirits.
Angkor Wat, Cambodia
The temples of Angkor Wat are numerous and many people spend an entire week exploring them. I chose to spend 2 days here, concentratating on the Big 3 which are Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm and Bayon. I took a tuk-tuk which I hired the previous day and set out at 5 am. It was only a 15 minute ride and it was still dark when we arrived at Angkor Wat with about 75 other tourists waiting for the sun to come up. Unfortunately it was overcast and a light mist was falling. I have been anticipating this moment my entire trip as it is billed by some as the 8th Wonder of the World. I guess that is because it did not make the New 7 Wonders of the World list last year.
Angkor Wat is the largest religious building in the world and it is truly a sight to see but somehow it did not have that "WOW" factor I was expecting. Maybe it was the rain, maybe it was because it is 5 am. or maybe I had just imagined how it would be for so long. I have seen postcards of Angkor Wat as the sun is coming up behind it and that is what I wanted. Unfortunately this is the moonsoon (2 hrs of hard rain every day and some rain the rest) season. I really hope that it is not because I have seen so much in the last 3 years that I expect too much. On the other hand, everything can't be Machu Picchu at sunrise or your first time to see Mount Everest up close and personal. But it was really nice. lol
Bangkok, Thailand
October 19 -22nd, 2008
I spent some time visiting the tourist sights before going to Phuket. As a rule, I hate most big cities and Bangkok is no exception. I did see the Grand Palace, Temple of the Reclining Buddha, Emerald Buddha and several other temples and the local markets. Also visited the American Embassy to get more "much needed" Visa pages added to my passport for FREE.
Phuket, Thailand
October 22, 2008
After a brief couple of days in Bangkok to get new visa pages in my passport, I finally arrived in Phuket which is the No. 1 tourism area in Thailand. On my way to the 5 am bus this morning I encountered what I think was a big rottweiler which somehow got out of the fence which enclosed it. Dogs have been a problem more than once on this trip and within a second my backpack was off my back and I started swinging it in defense. I slowly crossed the sidewalk and the transformer above the dog exploded and sparks went everywhere. Somehow I felt a little relieved that the dog had made me change my direction, but not too much. The dog went his way and I went mine. 7 hrs later I am in Phuket hoping for a little peace and quiet.
Phi Phi Islands
October 23, 2008
Today was another splurge when I spent $60 on a day trip to the Phi Phi Islands which are known as incredibly beautiful and location to Leonardo DiCaprio's "The Beach". The trip is normally $90 for the speed boat to the islands and food and drink but I was able to secure a large discount with a little persuasion. lol I quickly boarded the large speed boat which holds 40 passengers and secured a seat in the front so I could see the islands as we approached. Great idea, as long as it doesn't rain. It rained for about 1.5 hrs on the way to the islands and on the first beach. But the eight of us in front just laughed after a while because you can only get so wet.
The first island was Phi Phi Lae Island which was the location for "The Beach". I am not sure how well the pictures will turn out because it was raining pretty hard when we were there. The island is a National Park and has no tourist accomodations or businesses, just beach. We were there only 35 minutes and I would have liked to have stayed longer and visited the hidden cove which was also in the movie. The next beach we visited was Monkey Beach and there were monkeys everywhere on the beach which makes sense obviously. Probably 40-50 monkeys being feed fruit by the tourists. One monkey, with gnashing teeth, chased a tourist into the ocean. The guide said monkeys will occassionally bite when provoked. We witnessed several serious monkey brawls. Next we went to a beach for some fantastic snorkeling with great visibility and a large variety of fish.
Afterwards we visited Phi Phi Don which has about 700 inhabitants and very few, if any, inexpensive accomodations. We had a large buffet lunch which was part of the tour and then spent an hour on the beach. One more island stop to lay on the beach again for an hour and back home.
Will make some financial sacrifices over the next week to justify the expense but it was a very good day.
Karon Beach, Thailand
October 25-November 10th, 2008
I just moved from Phuket town to Karon Beach for 2 weeks just to finally rest up from traveling and hopefully not spend much money. I got lost looking for the one hostel on the beach and luckily a bar owner told me of a hostel that was opening up today and that I would be her first client. The room only has 3 beds compared to the 10 bed dorm I was looking for and is only $4.50 a night. I have the room to myself and hopefully it will stay that away. lol The room is only 1 minute from the beach so I hope to get a little sun. Moonsoon season ends at the end of October. It has been raining most of the day today but hopefully things will clear. May not post much since there will not be anything to blog about until I move next.
Georgetown, Malaysia
George Town is the colorful, multicultural capital of the Malaysian island of Penang. Once an important Straits of Malacca trading hub, the city is known for its British colonial buildings, Chinese shophouses and mosques. Beyond the old town, George Town is a modern city with skyscrapers and shopping malls. Verdant Penang Hill, with hiking and a funicular railway, overlooks it all. ― Google
November 11, 2008
I just arrived in Georgetown after 19 hrs of traveling by boat and bus. I found a wonderful guesthouse (S & D Guesthouse) which is the newest in town. A private room for only $6 a night makes this a very good day. Lots of sightseeing before my next beach trip. Local street food was amazing. One of the reasons I came to Malaysia is so I could return to Thailand. You can only stay in a country for so long and then you must leave for a while and then you are eligible to return.
Palau Langkawi, Malaysia
November 13-15th, 2008
I took the fast boat to the island of Palau Langkawi which is about 2.5 hrs from Georgetown. The island is beautiful but the beaches are nowhere near the quality of Thailand's beaches. Also, there are almost no waves. It seems like a lake but the sand is pure white and the Andaman Sea is a beautiful turquoise. I will try and post pictures soon. Saturday I will be able to return to Thailand where I will go to the island of Koh Lanta. At this point I will not have to leave Thailand again until I fly from Bangkok to Hong Kong for 3 days before returning to the US.
Koh Lanta Island
November 15 - December 12, 2008
I arrived in Koh Lanta today after a ferry ride, taxi ride, bus ride and minivan ride. Luckily I ran into several girls from Sweden who were studying in Koh Lanta and told me there was an opening at their guesthouse. The normal price for the room with air con, cable tv, refrigerator, hot water, bathroom and balcony is $30 per night but if I paid for a month it was only $10 a night. With one month left I decided to make my stand here for the remainder of my time in Thailand. I prepaid for the month and headed to the beach.
Klong Dao Beach
Three km (1.8 miles) of soft powdery white sand and calm waters. The beach is one of the best beaches that I have ever visited. The water is clear and beautiful and is chest deep only 4 ft from the beach. There are several beach bars and restaurants to watch the incredible sunsets and the restaurants have nightly BBQ's which include red snapper, sea bass , prawns and squid with a baked potato and salad for only about $15. That will probably be my Thanksgiving dinner.
Probably won't blog too much unless something exciting happens. I usually go to the beach early in the morning and walk along the beach and then go back to the room and watch movies until the hottest time of the day passes. Then back to the beach in the late afternoon. It will be interesting to see how one month of quiet beach time will be but who knows maybe something exciting will happen.
I leave Bangkok on December 14th and fly to Hong Kong for 3 days and then back home.
Diving on Koh Haa
I finally got a chance to go diving. I did two dives on Koh Haa which means the five islands. But as the dive instructor told us they are actually six islands. Only one island has a small beach and most of the island are large, tall rocks which protrude out of the Adaman Sea. The diving was really good. We only went to about 17 meters deep and the visibility was excellent. We saw almost every type of fish possible, beautiful coral walls and an octopus running along the coral to escape the approaching divers. On my second dive I stayed down for 61 minutes which is a personal best for me since I started diving. It's not great but I'm getting better.
Krabi, Thailand
December 12 - 16th, 2008
Today I go to Krabi after 27 days on Koh Lanta. 3 days in Krabi and then the overnight bus to Bangkok to catch my flight to Hong Kong. Krabi is know for its excellent rock climbing though I will not be participating at least for this trip.
One day I took the bus from Krabi to Ao Nang Beach and the surrounding beaches. They were magnificent and we got there by taking the "long tail boat".
The long-tail boat, is a type of watercraft native to Southeast Asia, which uses a common automotive engine as a readily available and maintainable powerplant. A craft designed to carry passengers may include a lightweight long canoe hull, up to 30 metres, and a canopy. Wikipedia
I decided to skip the overnight bus to Bangkok and purchased a cheap flight to Bangkok to catch the connecting flight to Hong Kong. Booked another night in Krabi and fly out on 16th. Things change, especially at the end of a long trip and you are tired and ready to go home.
Hong Kong
December 16 - 18th, 2008
I flew from Krabi airport to Bangkok, then to Hong Kong in a whirlwind day of airports. I got to Hong Kong early on December 17th. Then I had one night and one day to spend in downtown Hong Kong. My hostel was in a great location downtown and near the famous night market where I bought Kade and Madison's Christmas presents. The hostel was $34 for a bed which is very expensive but luckily I had a room by myself even though there were 2 other bunks in the room. I took the ferry across the harbour and went to Victoria Peak which overlooks Hong Kong and the harbour and is its highest point 552 meters or 1,811 feet. The view was spectacular and a great way to end my Asian journey.
Going Home
December 18, 2008
This long trip which coincided with my China trip has been an "eye opening" experience. I have visited so many different countries, cultures and landscapes while adapting to language difficulties . I have witnessed so many people who are less fortunate than myself but still happy that it has given me a lot of insight and hopefully that transforms me into a better person. I believe travel is a vehicle for personal growth.
END OF AN AMAZING ADVENTURE
(Grandkids Time)
CHAPTER 9. CENTRAL AMERICA (Mayan Ruins) Costa Rica, Guatemala, Mexico, Belize, Honduras, and El Salvador
(June 9 - August 18, 2010)
We left Baton Rouge at 3 am to go to the airport in New Orleans. My son, Jon, agreed to take us to the airport which saves a lot in airport parking fees. Our flight to San Jose, Costa Rica left at 6 am and after a 45 minute layover in Miami, we arrived in San Jose at 11:30 am. Refusing to pay $25 for a cab to San Jose costs us an extra 1.5 hrs on the local bus due to improper planning by me mostly but that's part of backpacking. After getting on the local bus, we had about 4 hrs until we reached La Fortuna, No air conditioning on the bus but windows down, cool rain outside and beautiful mountain scenery made the trip enjoyable. Kids slept some as we were all exhausted. The budget hotel was only a couple of blocks from downtown La Fortuna in a quiet neighborhood. A double room with private bath and triple room with private bath for only $50 total for both rooms a night. After checking in we headed out for our first real meal of the day.
Seeing the lava flow at Arenal Volcano was one of the sights we came to La Fortuna to see. We hired a minivan to take us to the best location to view the lava. The top of the mountain is best viewed at night and when there is rain the view is better as it dissipates the cloud cover. There was a slight drizzle when the van picked us up and drove the 15 miles to the viewing spot. There were other tour buses and vans but our guide took us to the best local spot which only had one other local van. We were rewarded with an hour of beautiful sights and sounds from the volcano. Red hot molten lava flowing down the mountain and the occasional rumbling of the volcanic gases releasing from the top. Back to the hotel at 8:30 pm and everyone exhausted.
The La Fortuna Waterfall is another of the highlights of the area at 70 meters (224 feet) tall. We took a taxi, after a little negotiation, to the waterfall which was about 3 miles away. The hike from the entrance to the waterfall was pretty steep but had concrete steps and railings. Unfortunately the steep 20 minute downhill hike would turn into a steep 30 minute climb. lol The waterfall was spectacular and there were a few people swimming in the icy water. After a little reluctance, everyone finally took the plunge. I got everyone to agree to walk back from the waterfall to the hotel to save the $6 taxi fare and to experience hiking. It took a little over an hour to walk back to the hotel and luckily it was all downhill. Wonderful experience, especially since it began to rain as we started back to the hotel and rained continuously for the entire hike. We, of course, forgot our rain gear and umbrellas but we laughed and enjoyed the experience. I have always heard that you can get only so wet. Not really sure about that saying now though.
After getting back to the hotel, we got dry and then made plans to visit Baldi Hot Springs to enjoy the 25 volcanic thermal pools, numerous water slides and buffet. Each thermal pool had a temperature sign to advise how hot . At $22 a person for the entire day plus a dinner buffet it seemed like a good way to end the day. If we had not forced the kids to leave they would have tried to spend the night there. The water slides were just too much fun.
For those who wonder why I post prices a lot, the reason is two-fold. First, to show that you can travel inexpensively and still have a great time and secondly, I plan on taking guided tours to various locations and want to give people an idea of the expenses. However, I am sure my future travelers will require a little more comfort than I experience which is fine.
June 11, 2010. (COSTA RICA, Whitewater rafting)
Today we went whitewater rafting. We had an amazing day and Madison got to "ride the bull" which means "ride on front of the raft" through less treacherous rapids. The water was so cold but we were too busy paddling and hanging on for it to bother us much. About halfway through the rapids, we stopped for a snack and the guides sliced up fresh pineapple and watermelon. Just what we needed and the BEST PINEAPPLE EVER. Afterwards we stopped off for a great prepared late lunch at a restaurant which was included in the price. Most "typical" meals include beef or chicken, rice and beans and a fresh juice drink.
After early reservations were canceled due to the lightning, we were finally able to enjoy the Canopy Zip Line at Selvatura Park in Monteverde. The Zip Line consists of 16 tree to tree stations over a total of 3 miles with some at heights of over 100 feet ABOVE the tree canopy. Crazy high. Scott has always had a fear of heights but managed well. Kade, on the other hand, had some serious knee knocking going on. Madison rode with a guide most of the time because she was too light. She did get to ride alone on a few shorter ziplines. Amber did well but like Scott kept commenting on how high they were. The Tarzan Swing was waiting for us at the end. Jumping off a very high platform and swinging out over the jungle canopy is worth a trip to Costa Rica by itself.
The alarm was set for 3:30 am in order for us to catch the 3 hr local bus to Puntarenas and then switch to another local bus for 3 hrs to Quepos after a 30 minute layover. I woke up at 2:30 and could not get to sleep again and Scott had set his clock incorrectly and had everyone up at 3. Even with all the mass confusion of getting everything together and being unsure exactly what time it was, we made it to the bus in time. It was early, everyone was tired, the roads were rough and the bus stopped every 15 minutes for 3 hrs to pick up more people. It was GREAT. Around 5 am daylight was just beginning and you could finally see that this bus was traveling along a dirt and gravel road mere feet from very high drop offs in the mountains. While we were traveling downhill you couldn't help but wonder when the last time this bus had its brakes checked. lol
The bus was running late and we made the bus transfer with only moments to spare. If we had missed that bus we would have had to wait for 3 more hrs until the next bus to Quepos, but we made it. We got to Quepos at 11 am, grabbed lunch at a soda (local restaurant), the kids swam in the Hostel pool, and then a quick siesta. Good but exhausting day.
7.5 hour bus ride $6 per person, lifetime experience..
We left early for the park to hopefully see the monkeys in action. We were not disappointed. We saw lots of monkeys, many within 1-2 feet. We also saw sloths, iguanas and a long non-poisonous snake slithering down our sandy path near the park beach. Unfortunately no one other than me brought a bathing suit, mostly due to the sunburn that we all encountered yesterday. The private beaches at the park were beautiful, uncrowded and very clean. The park provides several bathroom facilities, showers and drinking water throughout the park for only $10 per person with children under 12 free. If you come here pack a lunch, ice chest and plenty of sunscreen and make a complete day of it. The only injury of the day was when a monkey dislodged a foot long rotten tree branch and it fell on Madison's head. She is okay but let everyone know she was in pain. Still insists the monkey did it on purpose.
We arrived at the Hotel Mi Tierra in Alajuela shortly after 1pm. The hotel is great and has a pool. We got a room with 5 beds and bathroom for $65 and that includes breakfast and a taxi to the airport. Unfortunately we will be leaving at 5 am for the 5 minute taxi ride to the airport.
" I sought to see the amazing as normal, and the daily as unique, and in that swirling paradox, I found the joy of travel." Mary Poxon
" Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlan is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It really is too much of a good thing. "
Aldous Huxley
After 3 hours bus from Antigua and a 45 minute boat ride from Panajachel, I finally arrived at the La Iguana Perdida Hostel on beautiful Lake Atitlan. You can actually get Certified to scuba dive here at the hostel. The lake is almost 1200 feet deep.
June 22, 2010 (Santa Cruz to San Marcos hike)
I just finished a 3 hour hike on a path that runs high on the mountains and follows the lake. An English girl and boy from the hostel went along with me. We picked up an unwanted guide along the way. The English girl spoke Spanish and told him we were not interested in a guide but that did not deter him. Luckily for us he came in real handy. The trail had been damaged by Storm Agatha and had washed out portions of the trail. There was one spot when the path was only large enough for one foot to fit on it and it was about a 30 foot fall if your foot slipped. Thinking back on it , this was not a very smart move on our part to follow the trail when there was a serious chance of getting hurt. We made it to San Marcos about 3 hrs after our initial departure, quickly got lost looking for the boat to take us back, and finally made it back to the hostel after a 20 minute boat ride. I took over 260 pictures and will post them in about 4 days. The hostel will not allow us to download pictures on their computers.Today I walked straight up the mountain to the village in Santa Cruz. Not much there and only 1 restaurant. Later I will be watching soccer with the rest of the world , then relaxing in the hammock all while watching the lake and volcanoes.
I travel in the morning to visit Chichiastenago for the famous Thursday and Sunday markets in which the Mayan hill tribes come to town to sell their wares. Soon I will be heading to southern Mexico to see Mayan temples and then back into Guatemala to visit Tikal, which is supposed to be the best of the Mayan temples. I am sure some would argue that point.
I got up at 5:30 am for the 7 am shuttle to San Cristobal, Mexico. Nightmare to put it mildly. After 11 hours crammed into a minivan, a flat tire and difficulty at the Mexican bo4der, we finally it to the San Cristobal hostel at 7 pm. Should have take the chicken bus and risked being robbed. lol
It is a beautiful city so I spent most of the morning taking pictures of the sights. Then MEXICAN for lunch. That evening I watched the USA lose to Ghana in soccer and be eliminated from World Cup. Soccer never means as much until you travel out of the States and then it is everything. Wonderful group of Irish, English and Americans on the road at the hostel where I am staying.
I signed up last night to do the boat ride through the Canon del Sumidero, which is supposedly pretty spectacular. This morning it was pouring down raining from Tropical Depression Alex which fortunately is on the east coast of Mexico because I am on the west side of Mexico. Unfortunately there are no do-overs , so off we went in the packed van with what rain gear we had. It was a miserable 1.5 hrs getting soaked in the open boat with the rain coming down so hard that several of us had our sunglasses on to prevent our eyes from getting stung by the rain. Got a few pictures and will post soon. There was an amazing waterfall that just came out of the side of one of the high cliffs. Irregardless, my worst days traveling are still better than not traveling and I appreciate all opportunities.
I left rainy San Cristobal in hopes of better weather in Palenque. I took the 1st class bus today because it left earlier and was only $3 more. The extra comfort (reclining seat), movies and air con made the 6 hr bus ride much easier. There was also a toilet on board. What will they think of next. Guess I have been riding too many "chicken buses". Beautiful weather for the ride through the scenic mountainous southern Mexico terrain. Knowing that one wrong turn on these steep winding roads might be our last created an additional adrenalin rush. Arrived late in Palenque and located a cheap hostel.
Got up at 6:30 am to get ready for the 1.5 mile hike to the Palenque ruins to keep in shape and save the 75 cents for the collectivo ride. I headed up the path at about 7 am. but was misinformed by reception and my short walk turned into almost 2 hrs uphill. Got my workout but the humidity and effort walking uphill left my clothes quite drenched. It ended up being 4.65 miles. The ruins were magnificent and in great shape. I do not have time until I get home to properly put in details of the ruins but hope the pictures give some idea of the magnitude of this place to the Mayans. The fact that you can climb all over the ruins gives it a more personal feel than say Chichen itza.
Shuttle, boat, shuttle for 8.5 hrs. Will post pictures when I get wifi or faster internet, hopefully in Belize.
After serious debate over the last 3 days I finally decided to dive the Blue Hole. I was told to come by at 5 pm to get outfitted and pay. Around 4:30 I stopped at a local watering hole for a beer and chat with the locals before going to the dive shop. I asked a few locals who had dived the Blue Hole what they thought and was told I would most likely be disappointed but that the other 2 dives included were nice. For $190 US I expect more than disappointment and 2 nice dives. The Blue Hole is also 2.5 hrs by boat and it is supposedly a very rough ride. One I would have made had it been spectacular. The locals said that due to the depth (120 ft.) you only have about 7 minutes when you reach your deepest point before running low on oxygen. Will save that money for extra diving in Honduras which is also supposed to be spectacular.
While sitting in the Pirate Bar in Utila Honduras waiting for the World Cup to begin, I quickly noticed a girl, Jules, who I had met earlier in Antigua, Guatemala. After speaking for a moment she quickly turned around to speak to someone else and that is when I noticed it, a tattoo outline of the world on her back. I, along with many other backpackers, quickly told her how awesome it looked. She also said that she planned putting a red dot on all the places she has traveled. While sitting at the table looking almost hypnotically at her tattoo every time her back was facing me, I realized that I had finally gotten the inspiration for the "travel" tattoo that I had been thinking about since my trip to Thailand. She told me that she had gotten the tattoo from Mike at Tattoo Antigua in Antigua, Guatemala. I realized that if I was going to do that, it would have to be a tattoo of the entire World including the specific countries. I also knew that I would like to color in each of the countries that I travel to.
I dove the North Shore of Utila today and went down to 110 feet, a new personal best for me. It was like swimming in a box of crayons with all the wonderful colors of fish and coral. No Whale Sharks today but maybe later.
With deep regret, it is time to move on. Not being able to dive makes it much easier. My foot is tolerable now and the pain is negligible. If you stay somewhere on your travels for more than a few days you get to meet the locals and interact with them. After a week, they become your extended family. But after 10 days in the same place I also have the desire for new places and experiences, which is what makes traveling so incredible. I will say goodbye to everyone at Gunter's Diving and Skidrow today and catch the 6:20 am ferry to La Ceiba. Then the connecting bus to San Pedro Sula to catch another bus to Copan Ruinas (more amazing Mayan ruins). After a few days there I will head to El Salvador to completely check off all the Central America countries from my travel wish list.
I decided on taking another "chicken bus " to save a little money. The 2.5 hr bus ride to La Entrada to catch the connecting bus was only $2.50. That comes with its own price of stopping to pickup everyone walking down the road and other stops for no apparent reason. The exciting part came when we got to the top of the mountain. It is as though the brakes on the bus no longer worked. We were going 50 mph down the mountain with hairpin curves at every corner. Not much scares me anymore but I was starting to get a little concerned because earlier the brakes did not sound like they were in good shape. I looked around to see if anyone else was concerned including the 5 or so children on the bus. No worries, everyone seemed to be going on with their routines. I decided to embrace it rather than panic and enjoyed the rest of the ride. Disneyland or Six Flags had nothing on this bus ride.
I changed buses in La Entrada for the rest of the ride to the border. The bus would almost be considered 1st Class (it wasn't) and had a bathroom. The 4.5 hr ride would have been fine if not for the " Best of the 80's" soundtrack the driver playing over and over. To make it worse it only had about 4 songs that the driver was seriously attached to or that still worked. After a while it was like Chinese Water Torture. At the end of one song you could just sense what song was going to play next and no matter how much you wished for it to be a new song, it wasn't. Finally made it to the border.
A little confusion over if I had paid my tourist fee earlier and I finally made it across the border just in time to have missed the last bus to La Palma (8 miles away). As I am walking towards La Palma trying to decide whether to walk it or find a dive to stay in, a tuk tuk (3 wheel motor taxi) pulls up and says he will take me to La Palma for $6. I thought about it and realized dark would soon be approaching and agreed.
However, things did end on a positive note. I stopped at a really nice hotel which looked too expensive just to check prices. She said a private room with hot water and bathroom was $15 a night. Beautiful place with free wi-fi , a pool and restaurant. I told her that the price sounded okay but I would have to check a few other places. As I was walking away the owner spoke to her in Spanish and she said she had been mistaken that the rooms were only $10 a night. I quickly dropped my bags and signed in. The restaurant is pricey but I can eat there now with my $5 room savings.
As I posted on facebook, currency can be confusing when changing countries often. (colones in Costa Rica, quetzales in Guatemala, pesos in Mexico, Belizean Dollars in Belize, lempiras in Honduras, and now American Dollars in El Salvador). No kidding, its their official currency. Go figure.
After 5 hrs of traveling, I arrived at the beach, Playa El Tunco, on the Pacific side of El Salvador. The beaches are known for one thing, the best surfing in Central America. Serious waves. The black sand beaches are almost non existent at this time of year until the tide goes out, mostly black volcanic rock. I found a great place to stay, Tunco Lodge, for only $8 a night in the 3 person dorm. It has a swimming pool and free wi-fi, so this will make a great place to stop for a while, chill out and watch some really good surfers. Love to travel but really missing the family, especially the grandkids, Kade and Madison.
I spent the evening with great new friends from New Zealand, Ireland, the U.S. and a few locals watching the surfers at a local bar on the beach. It is great trading travel stories with new friends.. No matter how little your travel experience is, it is special to listen to other people's stories. My only wish is for others to travel and experience the same wonder that I am lucky enough to experience.
We left at 6 am to climb Volcan San Pedro which is 9,600 ft high. We climbed STRAIGHT UP for over 3 hrs with only 2 small breaks of 5 minutes each. I did not realize how bad of shape I was in until this climb. The effort was well rewarded with a spectacular view of the entire lake and the surrounding volcanoes. We even witnessed Volcan Pacaya near Antigua erupting smoke. Pictures at summit were a little hazy and unfortunately doesn't portray the actual beauty that we all witnessed.
After spending the night at my son, Jon's, Scott Tiffee and I flew from BR airport to Phoenix and then took a 3 hour shuttle to Flagstaff. We cleaned up and went to a Mexican restaurant for 1/2 price appetizers and 1/2 price Dos Equis on draft and some quality time with Melanie, our waitress. Back to the room early for sleep because the shuttle to the Grand Canyon leaves at 8 am. Flagstaff is a beautiful college town (North Arizona University) of 50,000 set at an elevation of 7000 ft.
We caught the 8 am shuttle from the Amtrak station to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. This is the area that most people visit when they go to the Grand Canyon. After being dropped off we got a sandwich for the 9.2 mile hike down the Bright Angel Trail and made sure our water bottles were full. The canyon view from the South Rim was spectacular. We began our hike down the trail around 10:40 am expecting a 4 hour hike to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon. We passed several packs of mules with riders coming up from Phantom Ranch and many struggling hikers. We walked for what seemed like an eternity with our knees taking a beating on the descent of the trail and then realized we were only half way after 3 painful hours of hiking. We finally reached our destination after 5 pm where we were supposed to signal Morgan and the others to raft across the Colorado to pick us up and return to the camp site. However, we saw a raft on our side of the river with 2 life jackets in front. We decided they must have left us the boat for us to row over when we got there. Scott manned the oars and off we went to TRY and cross the river. 2 minutes after rowing we heard a voice screaming to come back. Seems they were all on our side of the river looking for us and we were not meant to try and cross. Hate to think of what would have happened had the Colorado River gotten hold of our raft with our inexperienced crew.
While I normally blog each day of a trip, I found it almost impossible to express the beauty and wonder of rafting down the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon. I have decided to give a synopsis of our daily routine and let the pictures do the rest. Our boats were full with ice chests of prepacked daily meals in ammo cans for us to cook each day from our set menu.
Morning
Each morning begins early with JC (main guide) getting the kitchen going and getting breakfast started. We began packing up our cots and packing our dry bags so that we can load the boat after breakfast. Packing the boat and making sure everything is secure usually takes over an hour. We usually start down the river around 9:30 am. Each morning usually involves a few really good rapids that is almost certain to get you wet to some extent. There is also a lot of rowing when there is little current on the river. I was on the raft with Lance who was rafting his 1st time down the river. Scott and Mike were in the raft with JC who has guided groups down the river 281 times. For some reason I could only row backwards. Just couldn't get the frontward rowing motion. If the rapids were large, we would pull over and scout the rapids to decide which was the best route.
Lunch
Lunch was usually sandwiches and almost always on the river. We would tie the boats together and just drift on periods of the river which did not have major rapids. Quick bite to eat, unhook and back to rafting the larger rapids. An unexpected addition to the rafting was the canyon side trips which were anywhere from 1-3 times a day. JC would show us side canyon waterfalls and swimming holes which I am sure would more enticing in the summer. The side trips were really enjoyable.
Evening
We would usually make camp around 4-5 pm. Of course then we would have to unload the boat with all our stuff on it. Takes about an hour to unload, set up the kitchen, get water and get our cots and beds ready. Dinner is always the best meal of the day. I started out sleeping in a tent with my sleeping bag and an air mattress while everyone else had a cot under the stars with their sleeping bag. One night in a tent on the hard ground convinced me to switch to a cot. The temperature got down to 37 degrees Fahrenheit one night but that is why you invest in a good sleeping bag. We always went to bed at 9 pm. Watching the stars, satellites, planes, and comets at night was one of my favorite things that I enjoyed on the trip.
Note: The rapids varied greatly. Some just looked scary while others looked easy but weren't. One rapid involved had a 10 foot wave which came over our boat and soaked everyone. JC and Lance made it look easy and JC's experience was invaluable. I wish the pictures could convey the beauty and wonder of rafting down the Grand Canyon but it won't, at least not to the level that it truly is. It is just one of those things you should experience yourself.
We had camped only 2 miles above Indian Creek where our outfitter, Ceiba, was to pick up our rafts, equipment and Scott and I at 10 am for the trip back to Flagstaff. Since there were no big rapids we did not have to secure all of our bags and camping equipment. When we got to the landing, JC's wife, Diane, was there to pick up JC, Lance and Mike for the return trip to Las Vegas. Shortly thereafter, the Ceiba truck with long bed trailer showed up and we quickly loaded all the rafts and equipment. The landing is on the Hualapi reservation and the road back to the main highway takes about an hour and is dirt and some gravel. About 30 minutes into the trip the trailer breaks around the axle and tire mounting. We removed the tire and relied on the remaining 5 tires for the remaining 2.5 hr trip. We were dropped off at our discount hotel and I quickly waited for the hot water in the shower to get hot so I could take my first shower in more than 9 days, unless you count being drenched by the cold Colorado River. Irish Pub, food, beer and a bed for a change was a welcome respite to our whitewater adventure. ANOTHER TRIP OF A LIFETIME. Flight tomorrow for me to Ft. Lauderdale to catch a connecting flight to Cartagena for my South America adventure.
I woke up at 7:30 am well rested for the first time in 2 weeks. Spent most of the day blogging and posting pictures and watched a couple of movies at the hostel. Met a German, Tom, who was staying at the hostel and chatted for a while. No time, energy or desire to check out the famous Cali nightlife on Sexta Avenue. Cali is known for its salsa dancing. Another big day of traveling tomorrow with 9 hrs on a bus to Pasto. Highlight of my day was talking to Kade, Madison and Scott on Skype. Skype definitely helps but does not cure missing everyone.
I left around 7:30 am and walked the 1.2 miles to the bus station and then a bus to the border. After quickly getting thru Colombian Immigration, I walked across the street and quickly got thru Ecuador's Immigration. This had to be the easiest border crossing ever. Usually there is about 2 miles between immigrations at the border and countless people trying to con you out of your money between them. Then I caught a taxi to the bus station which was 6 miles away and then a 5 hr bus to Quito, Ecuador. I arrived around 4:30 pm and then a 45 minute taxi ride to Old Quito in the Historic District to the Hostel Quito Cultural. The hotel was very nice and once again, recommended by Lonely Planet. I plan on staying here until December 3rd and got a private room rate of $13.50 after some negotiation. It includes cable TV and breakfast and is only 2 blocks from the Grand Plaza. Hoping to find a good Spanish school tomorrow.
Another great day of sights riding through the mountains but no pictures unfortunately because the windows were heavily tinted.
I met a nice Australian couple, Peter and Sadie, at breakfast who asked if I wanted to share a cab to the teleferiQo (sky tram) that leads to the best view of Quito at 4100 meters (13,200 feet). Since the weather was beautiful for a change, I decided to chance the weather even though the weather in Quito can change in a second. We split the $5 cab ride and paid the $7.50 fee up the 2.5 km ride up the mountain. The view was spectacular and the weather remained good for the 1.5 hrs we spent on top. It sarted raining hard 2 hrs later.
I caught a taxi to go to El Panacillo (Little Bread Loaf) , a hill to the south of Quito, which is topped by a huge statue of La Virgen de Quito and offers incredible views of the whole city and surrounding volcanoes. I had considered walking there but the hotel said the neighborhood I would have to walk through was too dangerous. The taxi ride confirmed it.
Went to the Basilica today. Did not tour the inside but climbed to the top of the bell tower for great view of the city. Quite a climb to the top of one of the spires.
I went on a tour of Laguna del Quilotoa which is a beautiful lake inside a volcano at about 13,000 feet high. We started out at 7 am with my guide and it took almost 4.5 hrs to get there after stopping at the food market at Saquisili for approx. 45 minutes. The ride in our car was even more scary and exciting than the bus trip from Colombia. The road was very high and many hairpin turns with no barriers to keep you from hurtling to your death. We almost got killed when a Giant Orange Dump Truck tried to pass another dump truck on a curve. Still not sure how the 3 vehicles all fit on that narrow mountain road. Probably the most scared I have ever been in an automobile. We encountered several other large trucks on the way up the mountain and they all seemed to be racing each other down with little concern for safety. The return trip in the pitch dark of night with all the hairpin curves was no piece of cake either.
Back to the Laguna. We started our trek along the top of the crater around 12 pm. It was my guide, Mateus' first time to Quilotoa, so we were both experiencing it for the 1st time. As we started the journey we immediately found ourselves with a new guide, a brown dog, that seemed determined to lead the way. The trip was to last about 4 hrs. The path along the top of the crater started out very beautiful until the clouds rolled in and we could no longer see the lake. That did not deter us from completing the walk around the crater rim. The dog kept us on the trail a few times when we would have taken a wrong path. The climb was very strenuous as we kept climbing and then descending over and over. We finally reached the approximate end of the trail and saw what looked like a road near a path that went inside the crater. Unfortunately we took the crater path. 2 hours later, lost, we found a native who was was tending sheep who said we would have to walk straight up the mountain that we had descended to get back on the path. It looked too difficult so we continued looking for a better path. With only an hour of daylight, we asked another native woman to guide us out of the crater. We started straight up the wall of the crater for an hour and reached our car about 10 minutes before dark. I paid the woman $10 ($7 more than we had negotiated) because I realized the danger we had been in lost without a flashlight and totally exhausted. We arrived back at the hostel around 9:30 pm laughing about the whole adventure which is easy to do when you are once again safe. I leave for Mendoza, Argentina tomorrow night on a plane.
I arrived in Mendoza around 10:30 am this morning after a long night in airports and on planes. I left Quito around 4 pm yesterday, had (2) 55 minute flights and one 4 hr flight from Santiago to Mendoza this morning. Originally I had planned on spending some time in Santiago, Chile until I found that Americans had to pay an additional $110 airport fee. No thank you. Beautiful scenery flying over the Andes. Back in 4 bed dorm after being spoiled in a private room in Quito but so far I am only one in the room. Love the high 80's daytime weather and 60's at night but know it will be colder when I get to Patagonia in a few days.
Sarmiento Avenue is not as grand as Las Ramblas in Barcelona but is still a great place to go, have food and drinks in an outside cafe and people watch. The avenue leads to the plaza which is not special until they turn on the water fountains. Loving the hostel life again. Still lucky I am only one in the 4 bed dorm. Free pizza and 1/2 price drinks last night and free breakfast every morning. Lot of great backpackers here with great stories. Finally caught up on my sleep after being up for 48 hrs traveling to Mendoza. Hopefully, wine tasting tour tomorrow.
I am finally getting used to Argentina's schedule which is lunch around 2 pm and then a slow dinner involving food, wine and people watching from about 8-10 pm. Of course there is always someone playing a guitar and singing for tips. Last night there was also a Jack Sparrow double complete with Pirates costume and unmistakable swagger. He looked exactly like Johnny Deep. He was walking up the avenue before I could get a picture and I did not want to leave my wine and follow him. lol Back in the States I considered lunch at 11 am and by 5:30 pm I was starving if I had not already eaten dinner. I actually splurged on Sarmiento Avenue last night and had grilled chicken, mashed potatoes, bread and 4 glasses of wine. (1 free glass with dinner and the smallest bottle contains 3 glasses) Best $14 I have spent on the trip including tip. Tonight there is free food at the hostel so I will get back on budget until tomorrow when I go on the bike and wine tasting ride. We leave at 9 am and visit 3 wineries while biking through the orchards. Leave it to the Argentines to think of drinking wine in the morning. When in Rome. After the 3rd winery we put our bikes back on the truck and take the shuttle back. Wise decision. I should get back around 2:30 in the afternoon. I have to move out of my room in the morning because my overnight bus to Bariloche leaves at 10:30 pm and we arrive in Bariloche around 2 pm the next day. The Double Decker bus has seats that lay completely down, meals and toilet. Kinda feel guilty for all the luxury but it is supposed to be the best and most scenic way to see the Ruta 40.
Central America spoiled me with cheap transportation, inexpensive food and private rooms for $5. Just got back from supermarket where I bought food for next 3 days. Ham, bread, water and hot dogs will be my food for the next several days. For me to continue to travel, I must make sacrifices and stay away from restaurants and fast food which are budget busters.
As beautiful as it is here, the wind has been blowing at least 50 mph since yesterday. Therefore biking and kayaking, the two most popular things to do, are out of the question for now. Will take some pictures of the town later. Kinda has that Swiss chalet town sorta of feel with chocolate specialty stores on every corner.
Been given bad news by backpacker who went to Ushuaia and did the cruise to Antarctica. While there is usually room for someone at the last minute do to a cancellation, the discounts are no longer down to $2500 for the cruise. More like $3500. Will have to do some soul searching.
For the 1st time in 48 hrs it is not raining, though there are the occasional snowflakes. I leave tonight (8 pm) on a bus for 28 hrs down the famed and rough Ruta 40. While the first 10 hrs will be in darkness, I am looking forward to some amazing scenery. I have secured the no. 1 seat on the top deck of the Double Decker bus and it will almost be like driving with a huge window in front of me seeing everything the driver sees except from high above. I arrive at El Chalten at midnight which is not an ideal time to look for your hostel. El Chalten is home to Fitz Roy mountain and supposedly one of most beautiful sights in Patagonia. Hoping for good weather. Miss everyone back home but only heard from Beau in last 10 days. (hint) Can't ever seem to catch anyone on facebook.
I took the 7:30 am bus to El Calafate, starting point for most tours to the famous Perito Moreno Glacier. I found my hostel after walking around lost for about 30 minutes. The hostel is a little pricey ($15) for 4 bed dorm but the beds are NOT bunk beds and there is a private bathroom and TV in the room. I bought my tour ticket to see the glacier tomorrow. I am hoping for same good weather as we are having today. Still can not get over the wind in Patagonia. There is ALWAYS a constant 50-60 mph wind with some gusts actually knocking you down and it never stops. It also seems to come from every angle as I walked around the four sides of the hostel and the wind is just as bad on each side. Strange.
It was billed as one of the most beautiful and "must see" things to do in South America. Today I visited the glacier and it lived up to its reputation. I joined a tour which took us the 50 miles to the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. We left at 8:30 am and spent almost 4 hours viewing the glacier including a boat trip which took us right up next to the glacier. Everyone waited with anticipation hoping that there would be huge chunks of the glacier falling into the water (calving) but not this trip. Lots of rumbles however. The glacier is enormous. The glacier is as big as the entire city of Buenos Aires. The glacier is over 200 feet tall, 18 miles long and 3 miles wide.
Just arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile which is the staging point for hiking the "W Circuit" in Torres del Paine which is supposed to be the most beautiful hiking in Patagonia. I am staying at Hostel Esmeralda which is a family run hostel which is worn but well kept and the least expensive in the area. I leave tomorrow for 6 nights and 7 days in Torres del Paine. All the essentials. I will not have internet so will post again when I return on December 24th. I asked about getting food on my return for Christmas but was advised at the hostel that I will be eating with Crisobal and his family for Christmas. You meet great people when traveling who always make you feel at home. Having fun but missing the family. Love to all.
I am getting very excited about hiking for 7 days through Torres del Paine. This is the major reason I came to South America. I will be staying in very expensive Refugios (shelters but essentially a hostel), at least I think. It costs around $50 a night for a bed in an 8 bed dorm without sheets or blankets. (that is extra $12 a night) So I will be renting a sleeping bag for my bed at $3 a night. Food is also about $20 a meal at the refugios so I will carry in as much food as possible. (spaghetti, bread, ham and wine) All the necessities I have heard that the Circuit which involves camping and more days has better views but my camping skills are poor and therefore will still hope for some incredible scenery. No Internet while trekking but will be back at Esmeralda Hostel on Christmas Eve so hope to post then.
I arrived at hostel and found out there is no kitchen access so all of the spaghetti sauce and noodles in my backpack are useless. I have enough sandwich meat and bread for 2 days and then will start having to buy lunch ($14) and dinner ($17). A diet coke is $3 and Snickers is $4. Luckily I brought cookies and cake which I will eat for breakfast each day. Probably would have been cheaper camping but I am not the greatest outdoorsman.
ANTARCTICA
December 28, 2010. (Antarctica Bound !!!!!!!!!!!)
Departure is at 5 pm today. I checked out of the hostel after lunch and will walk the streets of Ushuaia until 4 pm and then go through security at the dock. I ended up at the port around 3:30 and saw a huge line of passengers waiting to clear security. Many did not seem to have any luggage and I was confused but later realized some were on day trips around Ushuaia. There were also many going to Antarctica on the 500 passenger ship which was enormous. Those passengers are not allowed to land anywhere on Antarctica. The passenger ship must not have more than 100 passengers to land on Antarctica according to the International treaty. I was actually the first person on board at 4 pm and then Casper, from the Netherlands, came on the ship. We quickly introduced ourselves and were surprised that we ended up as cabin mates. Probably because we both booked at the last moment. After everyone got on the ship we had an emergency drill on the top deck before we started our journey at 6 pm. This 11 day cruise is actually closer to 9.5 days. We leave on the December 28th at 6 pm and return at 8 am on the January 7th. 2 water trips of a lifetime on the same trip. (Grand Canyon and Antarctica)
December 29, 2010. (Drake Passage)
The Drake Passage is one of the most treacherouA
We arrived at Seward at 5 pm, checked in and took the free shuttle to Safeway for supplies. The weather was beautiful but looks like the rain will be arriving shortly. Sewas voyages for ships to make with waves topping 40 feet (12 meters), and a rite of passage for Antarctic tourists. Named after Sir Francis Drake, it extends 900 kilometers (600 miles) from Cape Horn to the northernmost tip of Antarctica and is famous for being one of the roughest seas in the world. The description did not disappoint as there were enormous waves rocking the ship and most passengers remained in their rooms due to sea sickness.
December 30, 2010. (Atlantic Convergence)
Lectures today on whales, dolphins and seals. Still in Drake Passage but in Atlantic Convergence, where the warmer and cooler waters meet. Compulsory emergency drill with life jackets at 5 pm. If weather is okay we will land at 7 am tomorrow. Everyone is getting excited. Really nice people on the boat. Most of the people flew in just for this trip and head back afterwards. I am the only person from the United States. There are Germans, Dutch, Canadians, English, French, Italians and not sure of some of the others. Not sleeping well with the ship rolling all night.
December 31, 2010. (Last day of 2010 and 1st landing in Antarctica)
Breakfast at 6 am and climb in Zodiacs, a small motorized raft, for landing in Antarctica at 7 am. After breakfast most passengers went to the top deck to see the incredible icebergs. Excitement is in the air. I was lucky enough to be in the 1st Zodiac to launch and land on Antarctica. Indescribable and why it is important to take pictures. I hope that at some point I will be able to verbalize the emotions I am feeling. Wish the family could be here with me. Not much sun and really don't know how that works here and there are penguins, penguins and penguins. So incredible how they don't seem to worry much about us. We are to stay about 15 feet away but if they approach us it is okay. I had read that if you lie down the penguins will approach you in curiosity. So I laid down on the rocky beach and to my surprise a penguin walked up to my feet and stared at me. Our landing was at Brown Bluff.
The 2nd landing was at Hope Bay where we visited the Argentine base and were welcomed by the Argentine children. Yes children live there with their families in an effort to claim ownership of Antarctica which is not allowed by Treaty. We visited the school and post office where I was able to mail a postcard to Kade and Madison from Antarctica.
3rd stop was Paulette Island and we saw amazing icebergs as we circled the island in the Zodiacs. Then we followed several whales for about 30 minutes.
January 1, 2011. (New Year's Day on Astrolabe Island)
Wild New Year's party which lasted way too long and made the morning Zodiac cruise with a lot fewer passengers than normal. Most said it was uneventful.
However the 2nd landing on Astrolabe Island was incredible with beautiful icebergs and every type of penguin including the Marconi penguins. Jordy said this was a rare treat since they are normally breeding in the Falklands. We also saw a leopard seal and fur seal, another rarity. Then we spotted a Hamburg whale feeding and followed and watch it for about an hour in the Zodiacs. No lamb for 56 years and had it for New Year's dinner, the 2nd time in a week including Christmas Eve.
January 2, 2011. (Cueville Island and Neko Harbour)
Today we visited Cuerville Island and saw some really beautiful icebergs. Afternoon landing was at Neko Harbour.
January 3, 2011. (English base)
I decided not to visit the English base since I had already visited the much bigger Argentine base and they also were going to see MORE penguins. They are fun to watch but it is getting a little old. The afternoon landing was canceled due to high winds. Then we head to Shetland Island which marks the beginning of the end. I am getting restless since I have already seen and experienced some of the best of Antarctica. I am starting to feel a little trapped as I am used to being able to move from place to place at will.
January 4, 2011. (Deception Bay)
We were woken up at 4:45 am by Jordy to let us know that we were arriving at the entrance to Deception Bay in the Shetland Islands. We all went on top to get a look but the weather was dreary and we all wished we had stayed in bed. We took the Zodiacs and landed around 6 am. We were told to bring our swim suits. WHAT!!!! Our first visit was to the Devil Bellows to get a look at the other side of the island and then to the abandoned whaling station. Some people did go for a swim in the cold water and then warmed up in the warm volcanic sand. I WAS NOT one of them. Leaving Antarctica this afternoon.
January 5, 2011. (Drake Passage)
Not much to do since we have left the Shetland Islands and are headed back to Ushuaia. The waves are starting to get much worse. I have been wearing the same clothes for 3 days since my laundry is still not ready but hopefully today. The trip to Antarctica was much more exciting than the trip back. Ready to be back on solid ground.
January 6, 2011. (Drake Passage)
The worst weather of the trip. The captain said the waves in the Drake Passage were the worst he has seen in the boat's 5 year history. Almost everyone stayed in their rooms except for meals. Luckily I did not get seasick but almost everyone stayed in bed most of the time because it was almost impossible to stand or walk. Some waves were 30 + feet (9-10 meters) high. Laying in bed seemed to help the most but luckily I did not get seasick. At 6:30 pm the crew presented a slide show of pictures of the passengers and places we visited. Then we all made copies to keep. Wine was flowing.
January 7, 2011. (LAST DAY)
We docked in Ushuaia around 4 am, had breakfast at 7am and disembarked around 8:00 am. and exhausted from 2 days crossing the Drake Passage. I checked into the hostel and went to sleep after lunch. An incredible trip. Loved the Antarctica part, hated the Cruise part. Also, there were only a few backpackers on this luxury cruise with gourmet food and free wine with lunch and dinner. I have never seen so many dishes that I could not recognize. While the $3990 was $490 over the top amount I had planned on paying, the average cost for most was approximately $10,000 with one paying $16,000 for a room alone. A few people at the hostel are leaving today for the same cruise at the same price so at least I did not pay too much considering New Years eve and day were on the Antarctic peninsula. Also our boat which has a maximum of 78 passengers only had 63 passengers due to the bad weather in Europe, forcing some planes to South America to cancel their flights. We also usually had 3 landings per day when weather permitted. Back to simple things and budget travel which makes me happy.
SOUTH AMERICA (Part 2)
January 7, 2011. (ARGENTINA, Ushuaia)
Back at Freestyle Backpackers Hostel after an incredible journey to Antarctica. Just had the best meal, french bread, ham and chips. After 11 days of gourmet food (lamb, grilled tuna, salmon, and numerous things I still don't know), I am so glad to be back to simple life and simple food. I leave tomorrow for Buenos Aires at 6:40 pm and will arrive at 10 pm. (not ideal) The flight was actually $50 cheaper than the 50 hr bus ride. Also know realize that cruises are not for me. I don't like giving up my freedom to go where I want, when I want and not be restricted by schedules.
Saturday, January 8, 2011. (Flight to Buenos Aires)
Slept until 10 am, had breakfast and then washed clothes. My flight to Buenos Aires was delayed and I did not arrive until 11:30 pm. I finally arrived at the hostel at 12:45 am, checked in and went to the hostel bar a little after 1 am for a beer. I asked the bartender why it was almost empty as this is a very popular hostel. He laughed and said no one goes out until about 2 am and then parties until daylight. Okay, this is not something I can adjust to in my 50's but to each their own.
January 9, 2011. (ARGENTINA, Buenos Aires)
I stayed up till about 3 am chatting with hostel staff and backpackers in the LOUD bar but still great fun. I , of course, had a top bunk again in the six bed dorm and the rest of the group came in around 5-6 am. Of course, when I got up at 9:30 for the free breakfast, the rest of the group did not move until around 3 pm. There are about (8) McDonalds and Burger Kings within 3 blocks of the hostel so I am back in my element of cheap food. The memory of gourmet food on the Antarctic Dream will soon be nothing but a memory.
I had planned on a City Bus Tour at 2 pm to get the sightseeing out of the way but was later informed the double decker bus was full so I will rebook later this week. Instead I walked about 25 city blocks to and back from the Sunday Market. This is where the local Artisans line the streets with their wares and a few musicians play. Nice way to spend a breezy, 82 degree day. Warm temperatures for the rest of my trip. I gave my fleece jacket away in Ushuaia because it's too expensive to ship and takes up too much valuable space in my backpack. There were several couples performing the tango in the market for tips. Lessons were also available but I know my limits. Dancing is definitely definitely one of them.
Tomorrow I go to the Brazilian Consulate to apply for my Brazilian Visa ($150) . OUCH It usually takes 3-4 days and you need to provide an incredible amount of information including a paid departure ticket showing when you are leaving the country. I will be spending about 6 days in Buenos Aires including a day trip to Colonia, Uruguay.
January 10, 2011. (URUGUAY, Colonia)
I spent the day in Colonia, Uruguay which is only an hour and half by ferry from Buenos Aires. It is supposed to be the highlight of Uruguay. I visited Colonia for 12.5 hours which was 9 hours too much. The ferry schedule didn't allow me to return earlier. I have a bad habit of seeing sights too quickly and not completely enjoying the experience. (I am working on slowing down) Colonia was really nice and very artsy and kind of reminded me of downtown Natchez, Mississippi.
January 12th and 13th, 2011. ( Puerto, Iguazu , Argentina)
After 17 hrs on bus from Buenos Aires, I finally made it to Puerto Iguazu around 8 am. Luckily the hostel was across the street from the bus station. Due to delays getting a Brazilian visa in Buenos Aires, I decided to apply in Puerto Iguazu which is hopefully quicker. After a quick shower, I went to the Brazilian Consulate which was only a block away. I had to complete an application by 10 am if I wanted a visa the next day. I finished with 3 minutes to spare. With a check in time of 2 pm I decided to go to Iguazu Falls which is 12 miles away. I got there at 11 am and stayed until 6 pm. GREAT DAY. FALLS ARE IMPRESSIVE.
January 14, 2011
Today was a chill day. Yes it's true, you do not have to do something everyday that is tourist related. At this point in my life I no longer consider myself a traditional tourist, just someone who lives his life by seeing new things and places. A NOMAD. Somedays you just need to chill. I laid out by the pool, drank beer and participated in the the hostel BBQ for dinner and of course, talked travel with other backpackers.
January 15, 2011. (2 more nights in Puerto Iguazu)
Just realized my hostel booking for Foz Iguazu, Brazil is not until the 17th so I will stay an extra day in Argentina. My mind is overloaded with the amount of pictures I need to upload from Antarctica and Iguazu Falls. Will do my best tomorrow when I will have more time.
January 17, 2011. (Foz de Iguazu, Brazil)
It is only a 30 minute bus ride to Foz de Iguazu, Brazil from Puerto Iguazu, Argentina. I checked in the hostel and then headed to the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls. Many claim the Argentine side is better because you are so close to the falls that you get soaking wet. For that reason, many pictures have too much moisture from the falls to get a really great picture. The Brazilian side was INCREDIBLE and offered many great pictures of the falls with many more falls in the picture. I momentarily considered the $100 ten minute helicopter flight over the falls but will try to find a YouTube video instead to see that view. I can't wait to post pictures.
January 18, 2011. (Ciudad del Estes, Paraguay)
Today I visited Paraguay on a short day trip before my 22 hr bus ride to Paraty, Brazil at 4 pm. It is known for its shops and malls. Our guide referred to it as the "Walmart of South America". Everything is cheaper in Paraguay. We went to a spot where all 3 countries (Paraguay, Brazil and Argentina) meet at one point. My bus to Paraty, Brazil leaves at 4 pm.
January 20, 2011 (Paraty, Brazil)
1/20/11
Made it to Parity after 29 hrs on a bus and 3 hrs in the terminal. Thought I had direct bus from Foz to Sao Paulo but no, got dropped off in Santos and had to figure out that I should get a connecting bus on my own because all anyone speaks is Portuguese. But got connecting bus to Sao Paulo which took about 1 hr and then found out SOMEHOW (because everyone only speaks Portuguese) that I was at the wrong bus station. The other was clear across town so SOMEHOW I figured out how to use the Metro (subway) and made it to the other station and bought my ticket to Parity. But it didn't leave for 3 hrs and I was starving. Any terminal (bus, plane etc.) is not where you want to buy food. I caught the 4 pm bus just in time for rush hour in the city of 13 million. When I finally made it to Parity I used the directions from Hostelworld which did not help at all. I tried asking for help but everyone just speaks Portuguese. (Theme is developing) Finally another hostel showed me where it was since it was Next Door. Unfortunately they still have their old sign from a previous owner and not the name I booked under.
Better today after 12 hrs of sleep. It is not always fun backpacking but so worth every minute of it. Spent over an hour last night trading stories of past adventures. Some people make me feel like a rookie when it come to backpacking where others are listening to every story with amazement. 2 more days here and then to Rio de Janeiro and Ipanema Beach and 1 of the 7 Wonders of the World.
Went to the beach with my new friend, Sabrina, who moved to Brazil 1.5 months ago from Italy. She is from Romania and learned Portuguese in only 1 month which I think is amazing. She has the ability to immediately make you feel like one of her best friends. Great day listening to her thoughts on life. Looks like she found her place in this world (Paraty). Still looking for mine. May do boat trip to one of the 365 islands (1 for each day of the year).
1/21/11
Went at 11 am on a 5 hr cruise to several islands for swimming and snorkeling. There are 365 islands around the city of Paraty. It was a small boat with only about 10 passengers but of course there were many other boats also doing the same thing. Fun day and one of the reasons I went to Paraty. Leave at 10:20 am for the 4 hr bus ride to Rio de Janeiro for a 6 days visit. Staying on Ipanema Beach and hopefully will get a chance to hang glide over Rio and see Christ the Redeemer, one of the 7 Wonders of the World.
1/22/11 RIO DE JANEIRO
4 hr bus ride to Rio and arrived around 2:30 pm. Very fortunate that girl from the hostel in Paraty, Tess, was also going to Rio so we rode the bus together and shared a cab to the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema. Just found out the hang gliding trip is $200 for 10 minutes. Decisions, decisions, ha ha, everyone knows I am gonna do it. Time to head the 1 block to Ipanema Beach. Excitement is almost unbearable. 5 nights in Rio and then heading north, not sure where. Missing the grandkids and rest of family a lot
So glad to be out of Recife. Hard to see sights in Olinda when no one at the hostel speaks more than 2 words of English. Even in China, many people learned at least a little English in preparation of the Olympics. Most Brazilians speak neither English or Spanish. With the World Cup in 2014 and Olympics in 2016 you would think that everyone would be learning to speak English. Enough ranting. Chilling out in Natal for 10 days until I bus for 8 hrs to Fortaleeza to catch my flight to Manaus. From there I bus into Venezuela. Got to talk to Scott, Kade and Madison on Skype last night and it was long overdue. Hopefully I will get recharged over next 10 days. No plans except for beach, swimming pool and 1 days of dune buggies on the high sand dune around Natal. It is supposed to be great fun with professional drivers taking you flying over the sand dunes for an entire day. Another unplanned expenditure. Luckily the free breakfast not only includes fruit but bread, ham and cheese. You know what I am thinking , right. Always make 1 or 2 ham sandwiches and keep for lunch.
February 3, 2011. (New hostel (home) in Natal)
Moved to a new hostel, actually a home masquerading as a hostel 2 days ago. Got a private room, they have the better beach on Ponto Negra and a pool. Staying here until my flight to Manaus. Doing nothing but relaxing and trying not to spend any money. Still thinking about Venezuela. Either way I will be going on the slow boat for 6.5 days up the Amazon in a hammock. I did that once before and while an experience, not that much fun either. But it gets me to Leticia where Colombia, Brazil and Peru meet and I can get a cheap plane to Cartagenca. Then Colombia will be my home for the rest of my trip. ( I think) Cuba ???????????????????????????
The beaches here are beautiful and found my new favorite food, Acai Ice Cream. Acai's taste is often described as a cross between blackberries and unsweetened chocolate. There are full of antioxidants.
February 8, 2011. (Bus to Fortaleeza and plane to Manaus then bus to Santa Elena)
After 11 days of fun and sun and getting recharged in Natal, I am ready to resume my backpacking through South America for the last few legs of my journey. Tonight at 8:15 pm I take a bus for 8.5 hrs to Fortaleeza and then a taxi (since its 4 am) to the airport. Then I take a 9am flight to Manaus and then straight to the bus station, where I will wait for 7 hrs until the 8 pm bus to Santa Elena, Venezuela which will take 15 hrs. Busy 40 hrs of backpacking.
February 10, 2011. (SNAKES & 1ST DAY OF CLIMB ???)
The first day of the six day climb started out fine but all of a sudden I found myself faced with a rattlesnake ready to strike right next to my foot. I kicked at the snake repeatedly trying to deflect its strike and keep its fangs from sinking into my leg. I was still kicking when ....................
I woke up on the bus to Santa Elena (starting point for the trek) and was kicking the foot rest of the seat repeatedly. I quickly looked at the passenger next to me and luckily he was still sleeping. I was still 6 hrs away from Santa Elena. I wondered if this was a nightmare or a premonition. Upon arriving at Santa Elena I signed up for the 6 day climb and at 6 pm we had the briefing about the climb from the local expert who has written 3 books on Roraima (from Lost World fame).
He said the climb would be difficult but the real danger was snakes. Coral snakes, RATTLESNAKES, and some other snake which could kill you within 20 minutes of being bitten. The fact that our bathroom consists of a roll of toilet paper and any bush you can find did not help matters. A lot grass along the trail along the way had been burned to rid some of the snakes. I stayed as close to the guides as possible.
Luckily it was a nightmare and not a premonition.
February 11-16th, 2011. (Climbing Roraima in Venezuela)
Over 50 miles hiking, climbing (using hands a lot) up over 9000 feet in 5 hrs, walking up and under 2 waterfalls, wading waist deep through two rivers, sleeping in tents on rock, and bathrooms which consisted of a roll of toilet paper and wherever you could find space. Hopefully away from the many snakes that supposedly are on this trek even though we luckily did not see any. Our guide said there are partial to Norwegians. lol
Roraima is the largest of the "tepuis" , flat topped mountains, which is 6 miles long on one side. It is made up completely of sandstone but there is lots of vegetation growing out of rocks due to the moisture and nutrients that the winds blow to the top of the mountain. There are crystal valleys and crytal rivers which is a sight to behold and the mountain is rumored to have specific powers and intersects the lines from Machu Picchu and Stonehenge. Strange sounds including voices and lights have been heard and seen from the tepuy nearest to Roaraima which is no longer allowed to climb due to strange behavior in the people climbing and lost climbers who were never found. (Sounds like a great movie of the week) There are over 40 different types of orchids and the weather has created incredible sandstone figures which are all named, such as the flying turtle pictured below.The surface has been compared to the moon. Will have to take their word on that, haven't been there, YET. lol
We also walked for 8 hrs one day while on top to the Triple Point, where the borders of Brazil, Colombia and Guyana meet. Technically I walked into Guyana for 1 minute but will not count that on my tattoo.
The price to pay to see something that most will never see. (Unfortunately, but hopefully more will make the effort) Great times. Hiked with Swiss couple and Gilbert (Jill Bear) from France.
February 19-25th, 2011
I found a boat leaving sooner than expected. Paid the $180 US for the 6.5 day journey up the Amazon which does not include your hammock (bought for $24) but does include all meals. My experience 4 years ago going downriver from Iquitos on the Amazon was less than a favorable experience. This trip, however, was much better than expected. The boat was larger and newer and the meals were really good for this type of cruise. HOWEVER, every lunch and dinner were exactly the same except for the type of meat served. The meal consisted of rice, beans, spaghetti noodles, and meat or chicken. Still loved it until about the 4th day then I was craving almost anything else. There were approximately 200 passengers on board and every hammock was touching someone elses. People started lining up for each meal approximately 1 hour before they began serving because the dining room only served about 30 people at a time. We got a much closer view of the banks of the Amazon than those who go down river because the boat stays close to the bank to keep away from the current. Most of the time we were within 100 to 150 feet from the banks. Not much to do during the day but watch the scenery, eat and sleep in your hammock. At night the top deck turned into a Salsa dance club with many Skol beers being consumed. I made some really great friends on the trip, Bobby (Canada), Hanas (Italy), Elise (Colombia) and Sonny (Australia). The sunsets were spectacular with the sun setting sometimes on the Amazon River and others with thunderstorms putting on a lightning spectacular. The first 4 days went by fast as the boat never docked at any other ports but starting on the 5 th day we stopped several times a day which was so boring. You can only watch people unload things for so long. The 6th day we stopped in port for 11 hours which was an eternity. Back to the hammock for more sleep was usually the remedy for boredom. So happy to land in Tabatinga, Brazil and then walk the 2 km to Leticia, Colombia. Finally on solid ground again. So happy I did this trip as I made great friends and added a more positive perspective to river travel on the Amazon than my previous trip. Thought that I saw a pink river dolphin at the mouth of a river that empties into the Amazon but it was a Manatee, how cool. Picture included.
February 25, 2011
The 4 Amigos (myself, Bobby, Hanas, and Sonny) and the chica (Elize) went in search of accommodations upon arriving in Leticia. The guys all found a dorm in a very nice hotel for only $10 a person in 4 bed dorm while Elise stayed with a friend of hers. Elise and Hanas are now an item and we are in danger of becoming the 3 Amigos (lol). We all ate food other than what we had been eating for 7 days and enjoyed a few beers. I ordered a hamburger which came with a meat pattie, lettuce, tomato, cheese and a piece of ham on it. HAMburger, I guess. Should not be surprised because it is the 3rd time this trip it has happened. Just glad it did not have a fried egg on top like there has been on a few occasions. Everyone else but me decided to go out for a night on the town. For once I used my better judgment and turned in after they decided to leave the hotel around 11 pm and search for more entertainment. They came in late making quite a ruckus. Payback was served by me at 7 am the next morning. Good times. I fly out of Leticia on the 28th to Cartagena for 4 days and then bus to Santa Marta for some Caribbean beach time.
March 1, 2011. (COLOMBIA, Cartagena)
Arrived in Cartagena last night after a 3.5 hr flight from Leticia. The taxi ride to the hostel was short (10 minute) but expensive ($7.50). The Hostel El Viajero Cartagena is within the historic and walled portion of the old city. Today I hiked along the wall of the old city and took pictures of all of the old structures which have been maintained well. 3 more nights here and then to Santa Marta for 2 nights.
March 4-6th, 2011. (COLOMBIA, Santa Marta)
Travel day. Take 4.5 hr to shuttle to Santa Marta. Something didn't feel right when I arrived at the hostel. Maybe the fact there was a MALL across the street from the hostel made it feel like Santa Marta was too commercial for my taste. I started making alternate plans soon after checking in. Tanganga, a nearby Caribbean village, would be my destination soon and only a 45 minute bus ride.
March 6 - 23rd, 2011
No plans here but relaxing by the hostel pool, watching sunsets, drinking beer and some beach time. I love the sunsets at the village port. The sun always seems to set perfectly while musicians play and people sip chilled rum. When the sun sets, the musicians stop ...... in acknowledgement. A great time is had by all.
After great couple of weeks at Taganga enjoying the beach and sunsets, I was summoned home by my granddaughter, Madison and flew home on the 23rd of March. I still had 4 weeks before my original return flight but was able to change the date for $150. Great time in South America and Antarctica. Time to start planning for the next adventure, but must spend quality time with the family first.
TRIP OF A LIFETIME, AGAIN. I am very fortunate.
CHAPTER 11. PHILIPPINES
Overview
Guatemala and El Salvador
(February 27th - April 24, 2012)
Manila, Philippines
February 27-29th, 2012. Flight and Manila
After approximately 45 hrs of airplanes and airports I arrived in Manila at 10pm on 2/29/12. Got through immigration in less than 1 minute and customs in 15 seconds which has to be a world record. Miami took almost 2 hours for the same process.
Unfortunately i had forgotten about the international date line when i booked my hostel and was a little upset when I was told I had already missed my first night which I also had to pay for. But as I know well, it is not if something will happen while traveling but when. You just have to smile and make the best of it. The small price for traveling around the world.
Was not prepared for the karoake until 4 am at bars on the street. That is another price of staying in the young hip area when booking. 6 bed dorm but only 1 other roommate who came in around 4 am. Looked like he had been SINGING karoake all night. lol
Must extend my visa while in Manila. The country gives us a free 21 day visa but you can extend it for another 38 days for a fee making the total stay 59 days. My return flight is April 24th which will keep me in the country for 55 days.
Will visit Manila downtown area and Manila Bay while walking from the hostel to Immigration to get my visa taking care of. Then perhaps overnight bus to Banaue which has the steepest rice terraces in the world. Hopefully I will be able to post great pictures while on the trip.
Sidenote: Continually speaking what little Spanish I know. Don't know how many times I have said buenos dias or gracias since I started the airplane portion of the trip.
March 1, 2012. (Visa Extension Nightmare, more pain in ass than nightmare)
Walked almost an hour downtown in the Philippine heat to get my visa extension and save a few dollars. When I finally found the Immigration Office a sign said must not have on flip flops and shorts to get in. Which is my wardrobe of choice always.
Luckily a young entrepreneur walked up to me and asked if I would like to rent some sweat pants and a pair of shoes for $5. In no position to argue I agree. It took almost 2 hrs to get my 38 day extension and cost $80 including the $5 i paid the kid outside but at least it is over. Of course , then there was the hour walk at noon in the Philippine heat to get back to hostel but as I always say, "I have more time than money."
March 2, 2012. (Overnight bus to Banaue)
Will leave on 9 pm overnight bus for 9 hr. ride to Banaue to see the steepest rice terraces in the world. Was really impressed in 2008 at the Longii Terraces in China so can't wait to see these. Will visit several spots and do hiking around the villages and rice terraces.
March 3, 2012. (Viewpoints of Banaue Terraces and Patao terraces)
After the long bus and arriving at 6 am, checked into the Peoples Inn. Nice private room/shared bath with 2 bed for only 300 pesos ($7.50) a night. Then hiked 1 hr up to the viewpoints instead of taking the $5 motorcycle with sidecar. Incredible views which I will post when have free internet again. In the afternoon I took a tour in the moto tryke to see the beautiful valley terraces in Patao. 1.5 hr ride on the worst roads that I have ever been on. That sidecar does not have shocks not that it would have mattered. Could hardly walk the next day. Beautiful views of the Banaue Terraces sitting on the restaurants terrace. Finally crashed after being up for 36 hrs at 6 pm.
March 4, 2012. (Batad Terraces)
After good nights rest, decided to go to Batad and visit what are supposedly the most spectacular amphitheatre terraces in the world. I met another backpacker and we went up to the Batad saddle by jeepney and then walked the additional 40 minutes to Batad. Truly is beautiful but little disappointed because the rice has not matured a lot yet so not real green at this point. I have seen the pictures though and its setup is spectacular. Hiked to the waterfall and the hike up was vicious. Straight up , probably 2000 ft. Also had to walk through the rice terraces to get there on the retaining stone walls which keep the water in. Everyone tried to be your guide and would give little info on exactly how to get there but I made it.
March 5, 2012. (Hike Batad to Bataan and bus ride to Banaue)
Went diving for the 1st time in 2 years to try and see the Manta Rays at the cleansing station in the Manta Ray Bowl. This is a location where the current allows them to remove the parasites. (something like that) Unfortunately we had no luck seeing any Mantas but did get 3 more dives under my belt. May try again or wait for the ship wrecks on Caron.
We sat on the edge of the boat until the skipper and leader of our group said to jump in. They have a spotter on a flagstaff looking for large shadows in the water. It was a great experience but after second time I had enough. While the regulations say only 6 people per whale shark, when one is spotted EVERYONE goes in the water towards the shark. Sometimes 20-30 swimmers.
My other favorite thing to do here is walk. Almost every child will say "Whats your name." Then they tell you theirs. I am guessing it is to practice their English, but they truly love Americans and will engage you in conversation whenever possible. After being asked my name, I asked a little girl her name and she said "Miley Cyrus". The Filipinos love to be inventive when picking out names. I heard of another whose name was Chivas Regal. At least in Donsol, the friendliest people I have ever met in the world.
Then started looking for a room for the night. A guy in the shuttle had mentioned a hotel but that it was $25 a night. After looking all over town I saw a sign at a grocery store that said lodging. I was only $3.50 a night but is in my bottom 5 on all time lodging places. I was the only one in what should have been a condemned house. There were no locks on my door and lucky to have a door as many didn't. Don't even want to talk about the bathroom. But had a fan, clean sheets and was really tired so made the best of it.
March 11, 2012. (Mandaorn to Boracay Island)
Caught the 7 am "pump" boat to Estancia for the 4 hr ride with about 20 passengers and lots of cargo. Started out inside the boat but the fresh air and beautiful weather convinced me to climb on top. That was great for a few about 1.5 hrs until the rain and large waves started seriously rocking the boat. That is when the 4 hr ride turned into a 6.5 hour ride. Arrived in Estancia around 1:45 pm and then caught a minivan to Roxas City, then another minivan to Kailbo, then another minivan to Leticlan, then a 15 minute boat ride to Boracay Island, then a 15 minute tricycle ride to Frendz Resort where I have a reservation in 2 WEEKS.
Since my plans checked so quickly and did not have internet, I was unable to make a reservation at Frendz, which is the cheapest and best backpacker establishment. He told me there were no rooms available but that he would have an opening in 2 days and then I would be set for a month. Down the street I go with my backpack and no idea where to look. Place after place was $40 to $60 and this was at the cheapest looking places. I finally went back to Blue Bayou, ironic, and took the $37 room with private bath, tv and fan and free breakfast. The fact that I had not eaten a real meal in 24 hrs was adding to the problem. They only had a room for the night so will do this again on Monday.
If this had not happened many times before I would not be happy but part of the job.
March 12, 2012. (New room plans)
Since there is no availability in the dorm at Frenz Resort tonight must still find other accommodations. Also, just found out Frendz does not have a pool which it lists as an amenity. This along with the cheap price are the two biggest factors why I chose it.
Luckily I found a great spot right by the beach with a private room/private bath, cable tv and air con for only $2.50 a night more than Frenz dorm. I know it is still $2.50 but as I get a little older my backpacking skills seem to be fading. lol 30 days in a dorm in Frenz was probably pushing the envelope. So I will do 15 days in private room at Bonzai Resort and then 10 days in dorm at Frenz. Chance to reinvigorate my youthful soul and share that great hostel vibe which I love, even though it comes with a certain loss privacy in the dorm.
March 13, 2012. (Boracay Beach)
Boracay Beach is incredibly beautiful, especially with all the sailboats, but the water has lots of seaweed. The beach walk where all the hotels, restaurants and bars are located is really busy all the time. There are many different restaurants of all price ranges from $1 to $9 unlimited seafood buffet. I still think that 3 mile beach on Koh Lanta in Thailand is still my favorite. There are sooo many tourists here and most are Asian. Move today to Bonzai Resort for 15 days ($17 day) including private room with bath and air con. Only 30 seconds to beach.
March 14, 2012. (Purchased airline tickets to Palawan and then to Manila)
Spent most of morning checking airline prices to Puerto Princessa , Palawan for the end of my journey. I will have to shuttle to Kalibo from Boracay (2 hrs) but the plane ticket was only $79. I then found a ticket to Manila from Puerto Princessa on April 23rd for only $52. I had planned on leaving Boracay on April 9th but will spend a few extra days in Paradise to save big bucks on the airfare.
Note: Think I am becoming addicted to Mango Fruit Shakes ($1)
March 19, 2012 (eating on Boracay Beach)
The beach is lined with All You Can Eat Buffets for $10 to $15 including amazing fresh seafood. I pass them everyday on my way to the cheaper eateries that I frequent which include Andok's which has amazing BBQ pork skewers (2) with rice for $1.33. Places like this allow me to travel and spend 2 months in Paradise, the Philippine version.
Some of the things that I am amazed by is how impossible it is to find a knife. There is usually a large spoon, which they use for a knife and spoon, and a fork for pushing the rice into the spoon and spearing vegetables. A large amount of rice comes with everything, including BACON AND EGGS for breakfast which I find a little strange. But I am in the majority, with most tourists coming from South Korea and China (80%), Aussies (10%), Germans (5%) and then a wide variety with only a few Americans.
(6) Ways To Avoid Street/Beach Vendors
1. NEVER make eye contact.
2. NEVER talk to them even to say NO.
3. NEVER stop walking.
4. NEVER get them wet.
5. NEVER feed them after midnight.
6. Put a bright light on them, they hate bright lights.
Okay, last 3 are from Gremlins Movie, but first 3 work. Lol
March 27, 2012. (Creature of habit, for now)
Have become a creature of habit for now. 6:45 am walk to bakery for 1/2 price day old banana muffins, then coffee, then walk up and down the beach. TV when it gets too hot to be in the sun. Lunch at Andok's for $1.30, then 20 minutes of beach time in hot sun, more TV, then dinner at Andok's for $1.30. Afternoon mango shake and final walk on beach. Occasionally, twice a week, will go for a couple of happy hour beers. Final walk around the beach at night to watch all the people mulling over which All U Can Eat Buffet to choose.
While not exciting, I am not on vacation but simply living on an incredible beach as inexpensively as possible and still having a good time.
Move to dorm at Frenz on March 29th for 11 days to save a little more money. Gonna miss my private room but will enjoy the hostel lifestyle as always. April 12th I move to Palawan Island for new adventure and final leg of this trip.
Moving to Frenz to stay in dorm for next 11 days at P600 ($14) a day. Have gotten lazy staying in private room all this time and also miss the companionship that u get at a hostel. But will miss my own tv and room. Will move back to Bonzai Resort after busy Easter holidays on April 9th for my last 4 days on Boracay Beach and then to Palawan Island to finish up my trip. Then will get busy planning guided trip to Costa Rica the 1st part of June.
After 11 days in dorm, moved back to Bonzai Resort for some privacy, cable tv and air con since it is so hot in middle of day. That is when I catch up on all tv. Leave on 12th to fly to Puerto Princessa on Palawan Island. Really excited about spending my final 12 days there.
April 12, 2012. (Puerto Princessa, Palawan)
Long day. Got up and left at 6 am for 2 hr shuttle ride to Kalibo to catch a plane to Puerto Princessa via Manila. Had to wait at Manila airport for 5 hrs for connecting flight and then 1 hot hour on tarmac waiting for weather change (humidity) in Puerto Princessa. Found the Dallas Inn (hostel) easily and luckily I am only one in 8 bed dorm, so got cheap price ($7) and have private room. Happens more than people think. Will catch a shuttle to El Nido at 6:30 am for what is supposed to be 5-7 hr shuttle instead of the bus which is 9 hrs. Paid more but want to get there early and find a good place to stay for the 10 days I will be there. Really excited about this part of the journey. Will bus back though and save the extra $5 I am spending on the shuttle. The last 2 weeks will fly by as always but ready to see the family, especially Kade and Madison.
April 13, 2012. (El Nido, Palawan)
Finally made it after a rough 7 hr. shuttle van ride from Puerto Princessa. Interesting group in van included several Chinese, couple from Japan, Italian guy and his girlfriend from Spain and of course myself, the odd American that few travelers ever see. While there are people from the States traveling the numbers are small compared to our population. For some reason people guess that I am from NZ or Australia. I guess the US is not even an option. lol
Spent an hour hiking the beach looking for that perfect, inexpensive room on the beach. Finally found a nice place which has a private room/shared bath downstairs for 500 pesos ($11.75) a night. My room is upstair next to restaurant and bar which have incredible view of bay. The real reason to be here is island hopping and viewing the sunset which I plan on doing in 2 hrs. San Miguel Light (beer) may be invited also.
April 14, 2012. (El Nido)
Have researched all the restaurants and happy hours and have pretty good idea where I will be eating each meal and where I will be at sunset. Funny today when I realize it was cheaper to buy (2) 8 ounce mango shakes than (1) 16 ounce shake. Saved 15 pesos by order the 2 smaller. Also, funny watching several dozen eggs tied down on the hood of a packed jeepney going down the road. Tomorrow I go on a boat tour to several islands for snorkeling. The day boat trips are why you come here. 9am till 4 pm and includes snorkle gear and BBQ lunch for about $20. El Nido is not spectacular as far as beaches but the surrounding islands are not supposed to be rivaled by anyone. We will see. Posting a few random shots of the town and karst (limestone) cliffs surrounding El Nido.
April 15, 2012. (Island Hopping Tour C)
1st island hopping tour which included Mantiloc Shrine, Secret Beach, Hidden Beach, Cadlao Lagoon and Tapuitan Island in that order. There was also an incredible lunch prepared by the crew which consisted of fish, including red snapper, shrimp, pork, squid, rice and mangos.
April 17, 2012. (Island Hopping Tour A)
Best tour so far. Visited Secret Lagoon, Big and Small Lagoon, Shimizu Island, Intalula Island and 7 Commando Beach. Great snorkeling, great lunch cooked on beach and some beautiful beaches to lounge on. Great group including couple from South Korea, couple from Spain and several Filipinos who were vacationing. And the one odd American. I am always questioned if I am from Australia. Not sure why , Mate.
April 20, 2012. (Winding down, birthday weekend)
Ate at one of the expensive restaurants and had pizza last night, fish and chips tonight and will eat there again tomorrow. Have decided to treat myself after 4.5 months of backpacking and have some nice food to celebrate my birthday weekend. Also, only place I can use my credit card and want to save up pesos for the final few days and final expenses such as exit fees which will be as much as P1000. More about saving pesos and using my credit card as it is treating myself. Can't believe this journey is ending but excited about seeing the grandkids and family.
April 22, 2012. (Farewell El Nido, hello Puerto Princessa)
Caught the 9 am shuttle van to Puerto Princessa and arrived in a quick 5 hrs. Checked back into the Dallas Inn dorm and will catch the 10am flight in the morning to Manila. Have not decided whether to get a hostel dorm bed for the remaining night or not. There is a hostel near the airport but reports of bed bugs have me thinking of just toughing it out at the airport. My flight Tuesday morning is at 6 am and I need to be at the airport at least by 3 am anyway. Make that decision tomorrow. Can't believe this journey is ending. Thinking back, I have been traveling 7.5 months of the last 9.5 months. Need some serious quality family time to rejuvenate me. Missing everybody and new sights and new friends are no substitute for family. If only they could travel with me always.
"Traveling in the company of those we love is Home in Motion." Leigh Hunt
April 23rd and 24th, 2012. (Going Home)
Caught the 10 am flight from Puerto Princessa to Manila except it left at 11am. Thought about whether to stay overnight at airport for 6 am flight or get cheap hostel near airport. At first decided to stay at airport and then was told I could not get my boarding pass and go to restaurant area until 3 am so got a taxi and headed to cheap hostel. Pretty close and only paid $2 for a taxi to get there. Dorm was full so paid $9 for private room but will not sleep more than couple of hours because going by taxi at 2 am to get ready and make sure everything is smooth at airport. Going to see the family and excited. But also know that when the grandchildren quit paying attention to me it will be time to head out for another adventure. Really no reason to stay home if not spending quality time with Kade and Madison. Too expensive just to stay in Natchez and do nothing. Maybe will get travel business started but will definitely be on limited scale as I have big plans this fall and winter.
CHAPTER 12. IRELAND, SCOTLAND, ITALY, CROATIA & MONTENEGRO, TURKEY & EGYPT
(September 19th - October 21st, 2012)
September 19, 2012 (Flight to Shannon, Ireland)
Arrived at NO airport at 12:30 am and settle in for long night. Was able to check in and get boarding pass at 3:30 am and got a notice that the Newark to Shannon, Ireland leg had been overbooked. It asked if I would like to volunteer my seat, if needed, for a $400 travel voucher. If so, to give the info to the gate official in Newark. As soon as I arrived in Newark I gave the gate official my info and said I would volunteer for the $400 travel voucher, new ticket to Shannon, hotel room ($100) and food vouchers ($30). They needed 2 volunteers and I was fortunate enough to be one of those. Got my vouchers and headed to Crowne Plaza. Was also able to extend my checkout until 3:15 pm to reduce my wait at the airport. Would definitely volunteer again and swap 1 night of travel for $400 in travel vouchers and free food and place to stay. Leave at 7 pm on Septemer 20 and arrive at 7 am in the morning. Also got exit row seat with extra leg room for no extra charge. Life is good.
Sept. 20, 2012
Arrived around 11:30 am at Cliffs of Moher after 5.5 hrs on plane, 2 buses and 2 hr wait in bus station. While the Cliffs of Moher are always breathtaking, the sun did not provide the light I was hoping for. Will go back late this afternoon and try again. Also, some of the "closed" paths I took when I was here in 2007 are seriously closed now and no longer accessible. The best views are from the closed path but they are building a new path but it looks like at least 3-6 months before it will be completed. Hope to post pictures later this evening unless the "pub" begins calling. lol
September 22, 2012. (IRELAND, Inis Meain)
Great day visiting Inis Meain, one of the Aran Islands. There are only about 150 residents there but luckily one is a friend of mine, Anamaria Connelly, who also served as my guide for my visit today. We walked for about 2 hrs around the entire island and the scenery was breathtaking. The absolute solitude of the island is magic. Really amazed by all the rock fences for the livestock. Rocks are a necessity as there are only 3 trees on the island and even the sod was brought in since most of the island is rock.There are also views of the Cliffs of Moher but Inis Meain has its own cliffs and they are also spectacular. Ended the afternoon with a couple of pints of Guiness. Seriously was better than I remembered but Anamaria that is because the best Guiness in Ireland was here. Caught the 4:30 ferry to Galway.
September 23, 2012. (IRELAND, Galway)
Arrived in Galway yesterday around 7 pm after ferry ride from Inis Meain and 1 hr bus ride. Staying at Sleepzone Hostel which is very close to Eyre Square. Will walk around and take pictures today and post later. Dublin tomorrow. Will defintely have to reintroduce myself to McDonals today to get back on budget. I see the Euro Menu (their Dollar Menu) in my future to get back on budget. At about $6.25 for a pint of Guiness sacrifices have to be made. lol Finished off last evening in Galway with a couple of pints of Bulmers Cider in the Latin Quarter. Last picture is of the Spanish Arch.
September 24, 2012. (IRELAND, Galway)
Loved Galway, had 2 pints of Bulmers Cider in Latin Quarter yesterday but it did not help me sleep with "SNORING GUY" registering an 8.5 on the Richter Scale. The 4 of us who could not sleep convinced the guy at the night desk to let us move to an empty dorm. Much appreciaed. Wonder what "SNORING GUY" thought when he woke up this morning to a room all by himself. lol
I took the City Link bus instead of Bus Eirean because it was 4 euros cheaper and had bathroom and wifi. Unfortunately it was raining and does not look to let up anytime soon. I have seen the tourist sites before so will blog today and catch a pint later. Hopefully the weather will clear up before my flight to Edinburgh, Scotland tomorrow evening. I have all day tomorrow to revisit Trinity College and other pioints of interest.
This trip is NOT representative of future guided trips because my time here is limited and I am doing some things I have not done before. Skipping Killarney (my favorite), and Kilkenny. For more of the typical sights check out my 2007 Ireland viist at billpassman.blogspot.ie or go to my blogs at bpassman.blogspot.com
Minus all the hiking I did on the Kerry Way, that will be done by Tour Bus.
Walked to Temple Bar District for a pint of the good stuff, some Irish music and to take a few pictures.
Lots of signs promoting Oktoberfest in Temple Bar. Seems like a sign for me to go to Munich.
September 25, 2012. (IRELAND, Dublin)
Decided to walk around and take some pictures on my last "real" day in Dublin. (will fly back in on 29th but spend the night in airport before flying to Venice) Took pictures around Dublin City Centre especially the Liffey River, Trinity College, Grafton Street, St. Stephens Green and Dublin Castle. Did not go in to see the Book of Kells today as I have seen it before and it is amazing but also 9 euro ($11.25) But suggest that anyone who has opportunity to see it, see it. Google it and see the amazing pictures and history.
Flight to Edinburgh, Scotland
The flight to Edinburg, Scotland on Ryanair ($65 RT) was easier than I expected. No specific seats so just grab a seat. Flight was only 45 minutes. The hardest part for me traveling is getting from the airport to the hostel/budget hotel inexpensively. Luckily, hostelworld gives great directions from the bus, train or airport to any specific accommodation. The airport is about 45 minutes from the city center but a city bus ride for $3 and I was at the hostel in no time. It was still raining when we landed though and I did have a short walk in the rain but had an umbrella. Checked in about 10 pm.
September 26, 2012. Edinburgh, Scotland
Weather much nicer this morning, no rain. Signed up for a trip to the Scottish Highlands and Loch Ness for tomorrow. I will leave on a bus with tour guide at 8 am and return 8 pm. Will cover a lot of Scotland. Afterwards, I walked to Colten Hill to get a better view of the city, then went to Princess Gardens, and Edinburg Castle ($25 ouch). Sunshine most of day and the castle was impressive.
September 27, 2012. (Highlands Bus Tour)
Due to my limited time in Scotland, I was forced into a 12 hr bus tour of the Scottish Highlands that included Glencoe, Fort Williams and Loch Ness. It did allow me to see a lot of Scotland in a short time. Over 350 miles during the day with several stops. Great Tour.
September 28, 2012. (Holyrood Oark)
Beautiful day so walked to climb up to Arthur's Chair in Holyrood park which gives great views of city.
September 29th and 30th, 2012. (Edinburgh to Dublin to Venice, Italy)
Quite a couple of days which included spending all night and getting no sleep in Dublin Airport. Arrived in Venice at 11 am. I took the airport bus to the Mestre Train Station which is very close to my hostel. The hostel was nice and only a 10 minute train ride to the center of Venice. I immediately left the hostel to take advantage of the beautiful weather. I could easily have taken the water taxi to St. Marks Square but if you know me I walked the long way around, enjoyed the scenery and saved some coin. lol
4 hours of seeing the sights and getting seriously lost, like always and like everyone else I had enough and went back to the hostel for a good nights sleep and early morning (9 am) train to Riomaggiore in Cinque Terre. Can not get over how many tourists were there at end of September. It was packed. 70 degree weather but can not imagine more people and 90 degree weather.
October 1, 2012. (Riomaggiore in Cinque Terre, 5 villages)
6 hr train ride from Venice was nice and I napped a little as I usually do on trains. There was a drizzle when I arrived so a little disappointed. Was told the hiking trail was closed so a little more disappointed. But checked into the dorm at the hostel and met a nice Japanese girl who was traveling for 1 years around the world. So we talked for a while about travel and things got better. Went to grab a pizza, free internet and wine at the restaurant and things got a lot better. Really a beautiful , special place but is so pricey now. They can't all stay hidden gems forever. I remember when I read about this place before my 2006 trip in Rick Steves' guide book. He said he almost hesitated even mentioning it because he knew the outcome of many travelers finding this.
October 1st and 2nd, 2012. (CINQUE TERRE boat ride between villages)
Had plans on spending two nights in Riomaggiore and hiking the Cinque Terre (5 villages) National Park path which follows the coastline above the 5 villages and is a very beautiful 6 hr walk. The path leads from Riomaggiore to Maranola to Corniglia to Vernazza and ends up in Monterosso. In 2006 I hiked the trail but ended at Vernazza. I was told on my arrival that the trails were closed due to a land slide. Several others told me the same including a lady in the tourist office. So I canceled one night and just enjoyed the scenery and made plans to take the boat ride the next day from Vernazza to Riomaggiore to truly appreciate the beauty of the villages from the sea. Unfortunately I found out as I was leaving Cinque Terre that only the easier coastal path had been closed. Travel has a way of changing plans with or without your approval sometimes.
October 2-6th, 2012. (ITALY, Florence)
Have seen most of the sights and museums on my 2006 but always loved Florence. So came back to just do nothing. Have loved every minute. The city of almost 372,000 is pristine, beautiful and QUIET. I have tried to figure out what I love so much about here and it just seems quieter than most cities. People talk quieter, there seems to be less traffic and there is a reverence that seems to surround the city. Almost as though they did not want anyone else to know they are here. Each evening I do my favorite thing and that is to go to Piazzle Michelangelo that overlooks the city and watch the sunset. It is truly magical.
October 6, 2012. ( Ferry to Dubrovnik, Croatia)
Had to catch the 5:50 am train from Florence to Rome, change trains in Rome to Bari, Italy. Arrived at 12:45 pm and tried to catch a bus to the ferry port. Took the 20 bus and 30 minutes later realized I had done the same thing 6 years earlier. Should have taken the 20/ bus. Got back to my origin, the train station, and took the 20/ bus and was dropped off a Jradrolinija Ferry dock where they no longer have a ticket office. I purchased my ticket online and therefore needed my reservation printed out. Was told there was a free shuttle at 5 pm to the new ticket office. The ferry does not leave until 10 pm and we can not board until 8 pm so lot of waiting. To make matters worse i got there at 5 pm and found out they would not open until 6:30 pm. That is when Peroni Beer got involved. Got boarded and started looking for place to spend the night. All the couches where most backpackers stay now have boards in the couches providing only individual seats and not allowing a way to lay down. They are determined to make u buy a sleeper. Found a comfortable recliner and watched tv as long as it was in English. Then found a comfortable piece of carpet in a less trafficked hallway. Worked out and slept till 4:30 am and we landed around 7 am. 1st off the boat and found the hostel without too much difficulty.
October 7, 2012. (CROATIA, Dubrovnik, the hike)
Decided on a full day tour to Montenegro and leave at 8:30 am. It is only one hour from Dubrovnik to the Montenegro border and only a little further to Kotor, our first stop. Kotor is draped along the beautiful Dalmation Coast and its "old town" has walls that go from the sea to the top of the mountain. Unfortunately my camera had not recovered yet from the water spill incident so I will be relying on some of the others on the tour for photos later. After a few hrs there we drove on down the Dalmatian Coast and I was truly amazed at its beauty. Possibly the bluest waters I have ever seen. (Antarctica was pretty blue also) Our final destination was Budva which is the hub of commercialism in Montenegro and favorite playing ground of rich Russians. There are only 17,000 people living there but 500 are millionaires, mostly Russians I am told. Spent a few hours a the marina watching the ships with the guide and 2 Spanish girls, both doctors, who were also on the tour. Arrived back in Dubrovnik at sunset which made the day perfect. Hopefully can post pictures when the girls email them to me.
Got my battery charged and decided to walk the city walls of Dubrovnik which gives a great view of the "old town" and surrounding area. Today is my last day. Dubrovnik and I have an overnight ferry, again, back to Italy and then a train back to Rome.
Arrived in Rome about 5:20 pm after a 10 hour ferry ride from Dubrovnik, Croatia to Bari, Italy and then train for 4 hrs to Rome. Luckily the hostel was only 5 minutes from the train station. Actually luck had nothing to do with it, that is how I usually book them because they are in the best areas for tourism. Cleaned up and went out on foot to take some night pictures of Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, the Coliseum and few others. Only a few missteps but the map did its job. Hopefully my 2nd visit to Rome will reveal some new exciting discoveries. My first EUROPE trip in 2006 was so rushed I felt I did not have the opportunity to enjoy all the sights I had seen.
Retraced my steps from last night to take what hopefully are better pictures. Visiting the Colisseum, Forum, Pantheon and Trevi Fountain again for enhanced perspective.
Originally had planned on not going back to Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel but only St. Peter's Basilica but plans change. It was a rainy day and thought the museums would be a great place to spend the afternoon. A subway there and 10 minute walk and shorter line than expected. Thank you rain. Really surprised when I got to the Sistine Chapel and saw several people taking pictures. It is taboo. Not due to damage to the paintings but because Sony, Japanese company , paid millions for the restoration and owns the property rights. They normally enforce a no photo policy which also increases their sale of books in the souvenir shop. If they were trying to stop people from taking pictures, I was in the right spot. Took a few pictures in 2006 which were hurried and fuzzy and almost lost my camera to the photo police.
Early morning flight from Rome to Istanbul. Bus ride, funicular, tram and 15 minute walk and found my hostel. Unfortunately, they had canceled my entire reservation instead of last 4 nights. They found me a room an hour later. Istanbul is the only city which has parts of its city on two continents (Asia and Europe) divided by a river. Did all the tourist stuff like the Palace, Blue Mosque, Sophia Hagia and Bosphorous Cruise. Also walked the bridge connecting both halfs of the city and the two continents. The "hawkers" selling anything and everything are relentless and follow you around trying to get you to speak to them. I started using my very bad Spanish and it helped deter them a little.
Cairo, Egypt (Great Pyramid and Sphinx)
October 17th , 2012.
Up 2 am, shuttle to Istanbul airport at 2:45 am and then flight to Cairo at 6:45 am. Need sleep, but stuff to see. Hired a taxi to take me directly from airport to Great Pyramids at Giza. The taxi driver headed towards Cairo and after 30 minutes traffic was almost at a dead stop. After about 15 minutes of this I asked why we didn't take the Ring Road. He said that is a great idea and off we went. Knew this by some research. It is a little longer but usually not much traffic. Arrived at the Pyramids and my guide immediately took me to his boss who tried to sell me a camel or horse tour of the pyramids. My original plan was 45 minutes of pictures and off to the train station at Giza. I held to that plan and it was really easy to walk around and take the pictures I wanted.Waited until 1 pm, the hottest part of the day, to walk the 35 minutes to the Luxor Temple. Very few taxi drivers, horse carriage drivers or salesman at that time of day compared to rest of day. I was the only Tourist in the Luxor Temple for the 1st 45 minutes I was there. A few more tourists arrived as I was beginning to leave.
Of the more than 700 human-headed, lion-bodied statues that once lined the Avenue of Sphinxes between the Temples of Luxor and Karnak, around 60 still remain. The Avenue of the Sphinxes is where my photos begin.
October 21, 2012. (Travel Day and Headed Home , wherever that may be)
Have spent the last couple of days mostly in hotel since I have seen the sights that I came to see. While I usually like to walk around and take in the culture and observe the people, the shopkeepers, cab drivers, and horse carriage drivers have gotten to aggressive. Witnessed what appeared to be almost a riot on the street last night while walking when there were 20 horse carriage drivers trying to accommodate 8 tourists. Lots of screaming, yelling and pushing among the horse carriage drivers.
In conclusion:
Incredible and very diversified trip. Originally this trip was to be a guided trip to Ireland and/or Italy but not enough time was allocated to properly advertise and inform the locals. So I used the trip to re-visit Ireland and Italy for future trips. Then the Trip took on a life of its own and I added Scotland, then Turkey, then Croatia and finally Egypt. As always, I learn a lot during my travels. What I would do again and what I would not. Hopefully that translates to a better travel experience for those I bring back to those areas if I decide to bring a group to one of these destinations in the future.
CHAPTER 13. BIG TRUCK SAFARI
Overview
Johannesburg, South Africa
Arrived in Johannesburg around 5:45 pm after a 15.5 hr. direct flight from Atlanta. Either the longest direct flight or tied for it in the world. I got South African money (Rand), collected my bags and called the Shoestring Airport Lodge to pick me up. I am only 1.5 miles from the airport which is convenient since I fly to Livingston, Zambia tomorrow to visit Victoria Falls. I will stay there until Jan. 4th and then go with African Trails on a 21 day Overland Truck Safari. Not sure how camping for that long will sit with me. Victoria Falls below on flight to Livingston, Zambia.
I went to the Livingstone Fall Heritage Site today to get my first view of Victoria Falls from the Zambian side. It was spectacular. Encountered a lot of baboons upon entering the park. I spent about 1.5 hrs viewing and hiking around the falls and then walked to the bridge to Zimbabwae. I walked to the middle of the bridge and watched the bungee jumping. I had my excitement of that when in New Zealand so saved my money. First picture is Picture of a Picture. Wish I had taken this.
The guide did a back flip first into the pool. I jumped 3rd and quickly was looking for a rock to hold on to. The current is not as strong there but still strong enough to feel it pushing you towards the edge. After a while and some pictures, they threw a rope to us so we could pull ourselves back to safety.
January 3, 2013
Today I will be leaving Fawlty Towers Hostel and Livingston, Zambia at 10 am on the free shuttle to the Park. From there it is a short walk to the Zambia/Zimbabwae bridge where the bungee jumping is located and where I will enter Zimbabwae. Either a 20 minute walk or short taxi ride depending on the price and I will be in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwae. I will be meeting Absolute Africa overland truck safari at Shoestring Backpackers where I will spend the night and meet all the people already on the tour. No more soft bed for the next 21 days. Not really much of a camper but will endure it due the cost and accessibility one gets by camping in the parks in Botswana and Namibia. Will not have much internet access for the next 21 days. It is going to be a very special trip I believe with lots of animal sightings.Little sad saying bye to Fawlty Towers as backpackers get a feeling of home when we stay in one place for a while.
We climbed inside the HUGE yellow truck that will be our transport for the next 21 days at 11am. Fortunately, the first day only involves about 3 hrs on the road to the campsite. We leave Zimbabwae and enter Botswana which is know for Chobe National Park and the Okavango Delta. We arrived at the campsite after buying groceries and then set up our individual tents. Since there are only 14 on this truck there is no need to share tents. We had planned on doing a sunset river cruise on the Chobe River to see hippos and crocodiles but it was raining so it was canceled.
We left Chobe National Park at 6 am and drove until 3 pm nonstop except for 30 minute lunch break at Maun, the staging point for the Okavango Delta. Since the truck is not crowded we were able to stretch out and catch a few winks. Seat belts are necessary because if the truck hits a large bump in the road it could bounce you into the ceiling. I actually saw one of the girls bounce so high that she almost hit the ceiling. Aly is our guide and JB is the truck driver. Everyone on this trip is from England except David who is Canadian, Amy who is Aussie and myself. Most overland truck companies are British for some reason. It is one of the cheapest ways to travel in Africa. Our campsite here for the next 4 days is at Sedia Hotel and we have access to the pool, bar and restaurant.
Everyone on the tour is doing a 2 night/ 3 day camping trip to the Okavango Delta in dugout canoes except for Amy and myself. Amy has been sick and the trip did not appeal to me at all especially since we were not going to see many animals on the trip. The Delta is very similar to our marshes in southern LA. Plus it is the rainy season and being cold and wet with no bathrooms and eating cold food the entire time did not seem like much fun. Decided to make a vacation out of this time and Amy and I laid by the pool and took advantage of the restaurant and bar.
I hope to be able to take a 45 minute plane ride ($90) over the Delta to take pictures and get an overall view but it is the slow season and no groups flying now and 1 person on the plane is $450. Will keep trying.
Arrived at Hopa Farm in northern Namibia and camped next to the LARGEST METEORITE in the world. As we set up our tents around the meteorite tens of thousands of ants appeared and made it very difficult for us. After our tents were put up they seemed to go back to their business in the ground. For some reason I expected a larger meteorite but googled it and it is the largest.
Meteorite to Etosha Camp. Very nice campsite at Lodge with restaurant/bar and great restroom/shower facilities. We did a game drive in the Big Yellow Truck from 3 pm till 7 pm and did not see any lions but lots of giraffes, flamingos and impala. Try again early in the morning.
Morning game drive after spending night at another lodge. Finally saw elephants in the distance and MORE giraffes. Also, saw more lions, ostriches and antelopes. Stopped and picked up lunch for 2 days at the supermarket. Set up camp at Cheetah Park which is owned by man and his 2 sons. They run a refuge for wild cheetah who have became a nusiance to the ranchers. There are 12 wild cheetahs and 4 domesticated cheetah which we visited and petted. Afterwards we went to feed the wild cheetah donkey meat. The guide would toss the meat high in the air and they would leap up to snatch it. We were in the back of the truck while they were being feed but it did not seem really safe there. The brothers were quite entertaining.
Left the Cheetah Farm and started our drive towards Swakopmund. On the way we stopped by the Cape Cross Seal Colony which is located on the Atlantic border of Namibia. We were only there about 30 minutes as the smell is horrible. There are between 100,000 and 200,000 seals there depending on the time of year. Sadly, many of the seal pups were dead for a variety of reasons. It is estimated about 27% of the seal pups die of natural causes.
A welcome break on our safari (journey) in the German town of Swakopmund. Namibia was first claimed by Bismarck and the Germans in the 1890's. There are still many Germans living in Namibia and Swakopmund has been called more German than Germany. The town has between 25,000 and 30,000 residents with a large contingency of Germans visiting during the German winter to take advantage of the more favorable weather in Namibia's summer.There is a really nice beach, though the water is cold, and Swakopmund has been promoted to one of the adventure and adrenalin capitals of Africa along with Cape Town. Lots of sky diving, sand boarding on the sand dunes, quad biking (4-wheelers) and go karting on fast track. 4 of the girls went sky diving the 1st day and had quite a time. Sand boarding was the choice of the day on the 2nd day. I am enjoying my "down time" and ability to use free internet to catch up with uploading of pictures and blogging.
Camped at Sesriem, gateway to the sand dunes. After putting up the tents we went the 6 miles to the sand pan that is located between several large sand dunes up to 960 feet tall (96 stories). About once every 3 years the sand pan is flooded and creates a beautiful lake in the midst of the sand dunes. The sand dunes are Namibia's #1 tourist attraction and cover 32,000 square kilometers (20,000 square miles). The dunes reach as high as 325 meters (1000 feet). It was amazing to stand in the middle of the salt pan while surrounded by the sand dunes.
Afterwards we went to Dune 45 (called that because it is 45 kilometers from campsite) and climbed to the top of it and watched the sunset.
The Fish River Canyon is supposedly the 2nd largest canyon in the world at 160 km (100 miles) long and a depth up to 550 meters ( 1700 feet ) deep. Nice but not the Grand Canyon. We watched until sunset.
After Fish River we drove to a beautiful campsite on the Orange River at the border of Namibia and South Africa. We did a 2.5 hr canoe trip down the river. It was very beautiful and we saw several fish eagles. About half way down the river we stopped on a sandbar for a swim.
Nearing the end of the guided overland bus tour. Arrived in Stellenbosch, South Africa and have finished our camping portion of the trip. Back in the dorm. Stellenbosch is wine country and at this time is the Wine Festival. Not sure if that is good thing or not. 2 nights and then to Cape Town for our last day on the tour with a final dinner with all the tour members.
Will leave Stellenbosch this morning for the short 20-30 minute drive to Cape Town, South Africa. Very excited about viewing Table Mountain up close and hiking to the top. First picture is Table Mountain from the Ashanti Hostel and second is the back of Table Mountain as we were approaching Cape Town. End of a GREAT EXPERIENCE ON A BIG TRUCK.
I have always wanted to be face to face (me in a cage) with a Great White Shark. This morning I was able to fulfill that dream. We left Cape Town at 5:20 am for the 2 hr drive to Gansbaai where "Shark Alley" would be our cage diving spot. There were only 13 (Lucky 13) of us and usually there are at least 20 people per trip. Smaller groups allow more time in the freezing water. I was curious why the water was so cold in South Africa's summer. I was told that when it is summer in the Southern Hemisphere the ice in Antarctica melts and there is a stream of the chilly water straight to South Africa. We wore wet suits but still very cold. When we first anchored, a great white shark about 12-13 ft. started circling the boat. Our guide said that many times the sharks will leave after the cage is lowered in the water.
I quickly put on my wet suit as many were debating when to go in the cage. I was the first one in and then 4 others joined me. The Great White stayed with us for our 40 "cold" minutes in the cage. One of the deck hands kept throwing out a large fish head on a hook with a rope near the cage. The shark was interested in it but not really intent on eating it. The Great White would swim right in front of us and on two occasions it turned its head and looked directly at me at a distance no more than 1 foot away. He had "dead eyes" and I was very thankful for the cage. We would sit on a bar waist deep in the cage until a Great White was spotted near us and then told to submerge and look for the shark.
January 28, 2013 (Capetown, Hiking Table Mountain and Devil's Peak)
"The first step in the journey is to lose your way." Galway Kinnel
The plan was simple, catch a taxi to base of Table Mountain, hike up the gorge trail to top of Table Mountain (2hrs) and then cable car down and taxi back to Amber Tree.
But the "travel gods" have a sense of humor. I asked directions at the hostel because I do have a tendency to not pay close attention to signs and other paths while walking. All around the world I have ended up on animal paths which no human should be walking because they always seemed to get very narrow and very high.
I found the path easily but while walking, enjoying the beauty of the scenery and while taking pictures I seem to have missed the turnoff and ended up at Devil's Peak. By the time I realized that I was a long way from my intended destination I decided to go ahead and finish this climb. I had gotten about 250 feet from the summit when I was no longer shielded by the 40-60 mph winds. These were not gusts , these were constant. I actually got pushed to the ground and got behind a rock and had to put on my fleece jacket. That is when I said close enough and headed back to find the original path.
Located it with no trouble but still had ANOTHER 2 hrs to hike in addition to the 2 hrs I had just completed. The scenery was spectacular but by no means easy. Straight up most of the time. Once on top I ate lunch and then went to the cable car. The line was long and when I found out it was $10 to go down, started walking by down the gorge. Walking down is always more painful because it is constantly pounding your knees. Finally made it and then tried to walk back the 1.5 hr to the hostel. I gave up at 45 minutes and hailed a taxi, but it only cost me $3 instead of the $6. I always say I have more time than money.
Fantastic day.
February 3, 2013. (Capetown, Hiking to Chapman's Peak from Hout Bay)
Purchased a hop on hop off ticket to visit the coast area around Cape Town. The bus is a double decker and you can hop on and hop off at any of the listed sights. I only got off at The Wharf at Hout Bay and then walked up to Chapman's Peak. It took about 3 hours in total from The Wharf but the hike up was not very hard. Lot of people driving it and hiking up. It has 114 curves from the bottom to the top. The views were amazing. Houk Bay is also famous for the surfing. During the surfing competition the waves get over 60 feet high. Add that to absolutely freezing water and few Great White Sharks, I will not add this to my bucket list.
After finishing the hike to Chapman's Peak I got back on the hop on hop off tour bus that traveled along the coast around Cape Town to Hout Bay, Camps Bay through Clifton and back to Cape Town.
CHAPTER 14. UGANDA, RWANDA & MOZAMBIQUE
(February 20 - April 3rd, 2013)
Overview
2/20/13. (Entebbe)
4 Hr. flight from Johannesburg to Entebbe, Uganda on South African Airways. Paid the $50 Visa fee (ouch) and went outside to look for the taxi that the Entebbe Backpackers had agreed to send. 40 minutes later he showed up. (T.I.A.) THIS IS AFRICA, an almost daily saying. I arrived at the hostel and checked in at 8:05 pm. I note this only because the kitchen closed at 8 pm so no dinner for me. I had planned to stay for 2 nights but wasn't feeling the vibe.
Feb. 21st and 22nd. (Kampala)
Caught a minibus from the car park for the 45 minute ride to Kampala. Crammed into a minivan with 12 other people. Kampala has over 1.5 million people and is built on 7 hills. It was very beautiful while driving through the city but mostly people all of the money resides on the hills and the lesser fortunate are in the lower lands.
Upon being dropped of by the minivan, a motorcycle taxi (boda boda) quickly asked me where I needed to go. He asked for 10,000 Uganda shillings and we settled at 7000. He asked a few people where it was and I knew I had chosen too quickly. At an intersection a traffic policeman stopped all traffic but my driver decided to take a quick left and pulled out right in front of an army convoy. Needless to say the traffic police were not happy and quickly caught up with us, impounded the motorcycle and detained the young driver.....and told me to find another ride. Luckily the person next to me said he would take me to Red Chilli Hideaway and he knew where it was. We settled on 5000 Uganda shillings. I made it without further incident and since I did not have to pay the first driver, save 2000 shillings in the process and had a story to tell.
Really nice hostel. Staying in an 8 bed dorm but nice group mostly of Canadian and Australia girls. I booked the Big 5 tour to Murchison Falls which includes a game drive in the most popular national park, a game cruise and a walking safari along with a hike up to top of Murchison Falls. Also, includes a visit to the Rhino Sanctuary where they have 8 white rhinos. Everything I had planned to do in a week in 3 days instead and only $325 for everything except food.
The next day I took a boda boda (motorcycle taxi) to the Uganda Wildlife Authority to get my Gorilla Trekking Permit. ($500). As I counted out the (5) $100 bills for the payment she inspected them and asked if I had a different $100 bill since one was before 2006. I knew they had to be before 2006 and had asked the bank for bills only after 2006. My fault for not checking. I had more bills back in the hostel safe but that would require another trip. She looked at me and said she would make an exception. Yeah.
March 5, 2013 Gorilla Tracking is set. Expecting another life changing moment.
February 23, 2013. (Murchison Falls)
5 hr drive to Murchison Falls on the Nile River. We only hiked for about an hour to view the falls from the top. Tomorrow we will view the falls from a boat near the mouth of the waterfall. The force which the falls shoots through the 25 meter gorge has been called the most powerful in the world.
February 24, 2013. (Safari at Murchison National Park)
Up early and arrived at ferry to cross the Nile River into the Murchison National Park. The entire game drive, as most, was done in our 4 x 4 vehicle. The Park is bordered by the Nile River. The roads are really good and normally you can see most of the animals. Unfortunately, we did not see any big cats but saw lots of elephants, giraffes, wart hogs, hippos, and cape buffalo. I saw lots of lions in Namibia so was not disappointed. The game drive lasted about 3 hrs. Then we returned back to Red Chilli Campgrounds where we were staying in Safari Tents which were large and really nice with proper beds. We could also see the Nile and surrounding area from our camp perched high on a hill.
(Nile River Cruise Safari)
After lunch at Red Chilli Camp we climbed back into the minibus and drove back to the Nile and boarded a cruise boat for our safari up the Nile River. We departed about 2 pm and cruised until almost 6 pm. We saw lots of hippos, elephants, crocodiles, and many varieties of birds. We cruised all the way to the mouth of the Murchison Falls and then returned.
February 25, 2013. (Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary)
We packed up to leave and eat breakfast. We were supposed to leave at 8 am but 4 of the young Aussies enjoyed themselves until about 2 am so I heard. On the way back to Kampala we were to have lunch and stop by the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. We stopped at the restaurant and ordered our food for later and then arrived at the Sanctuary about noon. Not my idea to choose the hottest part of day to walk through the bush in search of rhinos. We signed in and our guide led us to the area where some of the rhinos were located. At present there are 12 white rhinos (though not actually white, has something to do with their mouth). They have a baby rhino who is about 1 year old that I fortunately got a picture of nursing with his mother. To nurse the mother stands up and the baby lays down under her. One young 3 year old rhino is named Obama because its mother was from the US and its father was from Kenya. (Can't make this stuff up) Since it was the middle of the day the rhinos that we visited, 4 of them, were all resting under a big tree. We circled the tree to try and get good pictures and were fortunate enough that one stood to stretch his legs and then laid back down. Then after 30 minutes of whining by the baby, the mother got up so the baby could nurse. Enjoyable 1 hour but pricey for $40 but which was included in my Big 5 Tour price. The money is used to protect the rhinos and they are under 24 hr. surveillance to ensure no poachers get to them. They also use some of the funds for a children's school and for abused women. So while pricey, at least it is being used for good causes. We were only about 15 feet from them and given instructions to climb a tree if they got up quickly.
February 27, 2013 (Post bus to Kabale and boda boda to Lake Bunyonyi)
6 am boda boda (motorcycle taxi) from Red Chilli hostel to Post office where I bought a ticket and climbed aboard the Post bus from Kampala to Kbale. The ticket was 25,000 Uganda Shillings ($10) for the 9 hr. ride. The Post bus delivers mail along with transporting passengers. There was only one official bathroom stop and 2 "short stops" in which we stopped on side of the road and looked for a bush. No lunch breaks but plenty of vendors storming the windows of the bus whenever we stopped. Meat on a stick, grilled corn on the cob, some type of pastry, and all varieties of drinks and fruits. When I got off the bus to go to the restroom I had to take both of my bags with me or else they would be gone when I returned.
After finally arriving at Bunyonyi Overland Resort, I asked and got a dorm room for $15 a night. Expensive but beautiful lake and location. Here for 3 nights and then to Kisoro, the staging ground for the mountain gorillas.
February 28, 2013. (Lake Bunyonyi)
Lake Bunyonyi (Place of Many Little Birds) is Uganda's most beautiful lake and encircles 29 islands and its steep hillsides are intensively terraced. This morning I did the 1 hr hike up to Acadia Cottages for the best view of the lake. It was spectacular but not enough to sway me from moving from my $15 dorm to the $100 room at Acadia. We passed a school and all the children ran to the road waving and wanting to know our names and of course, tell us theirs. Good morning. Everything always seems better when I am hiking up high somewhere. The view down is always better than the view up.
March 1, 2013 (Last night at Lake Bunyonyi)
Last full day at Lake Bunyonyi. Yesterday 2 Overland Trucks pulled up with about 40 new people for the lodge. Definitely interrupted the peace and solitude of the lake. I called yesterday to Bwindi Backpackers Lodge where I wanted to stay for the gorilla visit to the Virunga Mountains. He is based in Kbale nearby and showed up at the lodge today to visit with me. I arranged to be picked up, driven the 3-4 hrs to the lodge, stay in a dorm with all meals included for 5 nights and then transported to Kigali, Rwanda for $150. I am thinking that is pretty good deal since most lodges charge $50-$100 a night around this location. Not only that he said there is a good chance we may see gorillas from the lodge since his property is on the edge of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. He then agreed to upgrade me from the dorm to a private room. This lodge is very new and in its infant stage as a lodge. I was told about it from my new backpacker friend, Jake Stone, who I met in Kampala. Jake was one of the first ever people to stay there. Since the grounds are still being landscaped everyone gets to plant a tree there with a sign and if you return you stay for half price. (Only $5 a night instead of $10 lol) Leave tomorrow at 3 pm.
March 2, 2013. (Bwindi Backpackers Lodge)
Picked up by Seith at around 4:30 pm for the short drive to Kabale to wait for the other person coming from Kigali. He ran late so we did not leave Kabale until about 6 pm. The drive took a little over 2 hrs on some really bad dirt roads. Since it was dark, we were not able to see what is amazing scenery high up in the moutains. Boht Eliot, Aussie, and I had booked dorms at only $10 a night but the dorms have not been completed at the Backpacker Lodge yet so we both were given a private single room each for the same price. Bwindi Backpackers only opened in November 2012 and we were the 58th and 59th people to stay there. There is no electricity, yet, but the power lines are in place and they are hopeful it will not be too long. My trekking day was not until the 5th but Eliot was trekking the gorillas the next day. I went with the guide, Ivan, the next day to see the 15 acre garden Seith planted which has all varieties of trees, crops, pine seedlings, rabbits and natural swimming pool is in the works. We also visited a waterfall, cattle ranch and visited the village. It took about 3 hrs in all. Nice day.
March 3, 2013. (Church day in Uganda)
2 days before hiking to see the gorillas I had one of those great cultural experiences. Seith's dad asked me about 10:30 am if I would like to go to church with him. Caught by surprise but realizing what a unique experience this would be , I agreed. As we left Seith's dad told the cooks we would be back for lunch at 1:00 pm. We walked the 2 miles to the church and arrived just as they were beginning. We sat in the back but word quickly spread through the congregation that there was a muzunga (white traveler) in the church. The stares back towards me quickly became frequent. Small children who just roam the aisles quickly decided that my aisle was the one to frequent. Seith's dad (can't remember or pronounce his name) acted as a translator throughout the singing, testimony and sermon. While almost everyone speaks English most speak their own tribal language when possible.
A special group had come from Kisoro to sing for the church. Afterwards, one of the singers gave her testimony to the atrocities that happened to her afer her husband died leaving her with a small child and how God stepped in to help her when she thought there was no hope. This testimony lasted a long time. Then more singing which lasted a long time. By this time a man moved next to me on the other side and told me he would translate for me. Now I have Stereo translation with both giving me the play by play of the singing and sermon which was to come. This was a Protestant Church but there seemed to be a two people addressing the church with one in a robe who gave the sermon. The sermon, even in Stereo, was very long. Seith's dad had given me a coin and paper to wrap it in to give as a tithe. I told him I would give me own money and thanked him. I wrapped it in the small piece of paper and followed him to the front of the church to give it to one of the 5 people in the front. He said we would give it to his wife who was one of the five. Then there was more singing. And then he said they would do a Thanksgiving for those who were blessed who would like to donate. I immediately walked up to the front and deposited some money into the Thanksgiving plate. Caught Seith's dad off guard because he quickly came up after me, made a donation and said that there would be a small prayer while we were up there to ask God to accept our offering. The sermon was a little unusual or maybe it was the translation. They talked a lot about witchcraft and people who were possessed by witchcraft. On a hike the previous day my guide showed me a tree which is used to make a brew to remove witchcraft from those possessed. I kept asking if he was talking about evil but he never would tie the two together completely. Some locals worship a particular tree but the practice is becoming less common.
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After the services, I was requested to meet with some of the congregation outside. They were very happy to meet me and all spoke English. Finally time to go back the 2 miles and eat lunch as I was starving. Of course, it was 3PM . 5 Hrs in church. Seems it ran a little long. The word of my church attendance quickly spread throughout the villages and on my many walks many would say hi and said they heard about me going to church. Seems I am the 1st Muzunga to every attend a church service in the area and the fact that I tithed and donated to Thanksgiving made it more impressive to them. Great experience.
March 5, 2013. (Gorillas in the Mist)
The BIG DAY. GORILLA TREKKING IN UGANDA. SOMETHING I HAVE ALWAYS WANTED TO DO MY WHOLE LIFE.
Seith drove me the 10 minutes to the Nkuringo Ranger Station for the gorilla group briefing before the trekking began. Only 8 people are allowed to trek to each gorilla group per day and you are only allowed to spend one (1) hour observing the gorillas. The cost is $500 for the gorilla permit and includes the guides, trackers and 2 armed guards. The guards are to protect us in case the gorillas pose a threat but they only shoot up in the air if there is a problem. The Nkuringo Group of Gorillas are the most habituated group in Uganda we were told and this is the group VIP's come to see. I was fortunate enough that when I applied for my trekking the girl advised me to see them if I had a lot of leeway in my travel schedule.
There are 14 gorillas in the NKuringo group which includes 4 Silverbacks. We began our trekking 14 Km away from the Ranger station since the gorillas had moved. We hiked down one steep valley and up another, then down a steep valley and up another. Then down one more time until we finally were told the gorillas had been located bythe trackers. Only 2 hrs of hiking and we had found the gorillas. I had heard that sometimes it can take much longer. We were told to drop our backpacks and walking sticks and just bring cameras and extra batteries if we had them. I dropped my bag and was the first person behind the guide as we approached where the gorillas had been spotted. After about a minute a ranger pulled back some brush and a gorilla was sitting there eating leaves. We walked around to another area where most of the gorilla group was situated. We first encountered a mother and her baby. The guide told us their names as each of the 14 gorillas has been named. The gorilla named Christmas is supposedly the most friendly. After about 15 minutes observing some of the mothers and babies, one of the Silverbacks made his way to us to give us an inspection. He walked almost right up to me and I was told to slowly move backwards and give him room. I had NO problem with that as they are one of the most powerful animals in the world. He posed for us several minutes. I even got a picture of a baby gorilla who stood up and walked on 2 feet right in front of us. Even the guide were excited to see it as it was the only time it happened. Not an everyday occurrence. During our time there we were fortunate enough to see 12 of the 14 gorillas including all 4 Silverbacks. One of the Silverbacks climbed up a small tree and perched on a limb while observing us.
At about the 40 minute mark it started to rain, hard. Of course my raincoat, rain pants and b backpack cover were all inside my backpack which I left behind with the porters as we were told. I was completely soaked in 2 minutes and it was very cold but I kept taking pictures. It became dark and the pictures did not come out as great as I had hoped. One of the gorilla rules is NO FLASH photography. With only 8 minutes left in our hour and the rain pouring so hard you could not see far in front of you, we decided to end our incredible gorilla encounter and head back.
The Ranger said since the rain was so intense we would not be able to go back the same route but must walk back to the Ranger station , 14 km (about 9 miles) back. The guide hacked a new trail straight up a couple of valleys to avoid trails that were too muddy to climb.The rain quit about 2 pm and we stopped at the top of a large hill and had our packed lunch. I had 2 tomato sandwiches, bananas, watermelon and pineapple. Not sure what type of sandwich the English Couple who stayed at Clouds had but it looked pretty impressive. Of course, their accommodations at Clouds cost $750 PER PERSON PER NIGHT. That's right, $1500 a night for a couple to stay at Clouds. (Will post pictures of Clouds later) I was very happy to pay $10 per night and eat my tomato sandwiches and fruit, thank you very much. lol
Arrived back at the Ranger Station about 3:30 pm after 5 hrs intense hiking and 1 hr observing the gorillas. We "graduated" and received our gorilla certificates from the Ranger.
Back to the Bwindi Backpackers to reflect on the experience. As I thought about it afterwards I can not believe how close we were to the gorillas. Gorillas have 98.4% of the same genes that humans have. They seem so human at time. It is really an experience that is impossible to describe but must be experienced yourself. GREAT DAY.
March 6, 2013. (Hiking around Bwindi Backpackers)
I did several hikes with my guide, Ivan, while staying at Bwindi Backpackers. The first was to visit the waterfall and 15 acre garden that Seith had purchased. Seith has planted all kinds of trees, including many fruit trees, throughout this garden. He also plants many crops to help make his lodge self sustainable. He also has nurseries of pine seedling to help the government replant where trees have been cut down and used for timber. It was a beautiful hike and after the waterfall we hiked up through a cattle ranch and into the village.
The second hike involved a boda boda (moto taxi) ride to the beginning of the hike to another mountain gorilla group. While we could only go so to the edge of the National Forest, it was a beautiful of the surrounding areas from on top of one of the mountains. Walked over 20 kilometers (13 miles) including all the way back to the lodge. Definitely getting back in shape.
March 7, 2013. (Sad day and didn't know it)
Woke up at 4 am which a strange feeling that something was wrong with someone in my family. Could not shake the feeling and was unable to go back to sleep. Having no internet for the past week was nice but also a little worrisome not being able to make sure everyone was okay. My only travel fear is being gone when needed at home.
I told Seith at breakfast that I needed to leave a couple of days early as I needed to check on my family. He said he could get me transport to Gensenyi, Rwanda on Saturday, 2 days from now. With that my only option, I told him to arrange it.
I would not find out until I arrived in Gensenyi upon going straight to the Internet Cafe that one of my best friends in the world and 1st couisin, Brad Passman, had died early on the morning of the 7th. With the 8-9 hours time difference I figured that I must have awoken a few hours within his death. He will be greatly missed by all who knew him. Love you Brad, rest in peace.
March 10, 2013. (RWANDA, Kigali)
After a brief overnight stay in Gensenyi where I found out of Brad's passing, I quickly moved on to Kigali from where my flight back to Johannesburg would depart on the 20th. I checked into the Discover Rwanda Youth Hostel which was really nice. It is owned by a non-profit company and the proceeds go to the Rwanda Genocide Foundation. The next day I went to downtown Kigali on a moto taxi and went to the South Africa Airways office to see if I could change the departure date. They said a fee was involved and on many international flights, which this was, the fee is $250 which I could not afford to pay. She told me she could change the flight to the 13th for $44 US dollars. I said book it. Give me more time in Mozambique and really not much else to do in Rwanda but see Gorillas and I did that cheaper in Uganda.
March 12 and 13th, 2003. (Kigali, Rwanda to Johannesburg, South Africa to Maputo, Mozambique) Crazy travel day.
I had to go to the Kigali Airport at 10 pm for my next day flight at 6 am to avoid the $20 taxi fee. Spent the night in the cafe until able to check in at 4 am. Departed at 6 am and arrived in Johannesburg at 11 am after a brief stopover in Burundi. Caught the Gautrain (airport train to city) to Park Station where I was to connect with a 6 pm train to Mozambique border. Had 5 hrs to kill before boarding the train at 5 pm and luckily found a KFC where I could eat and play computer games. At 4:45 pm I purchased KFC for the train ride which would last 12 hours. Hopefully will get sleep on the train. I arrived as told at 5 pm at the terminal gate. There were already about 100 people in line with HUGE bags. They obviously had come here to do their shopping for a month or so. Seat are no reserved so grab the first seat you can. I was lucky to find a window seat and had no one seating next to me for half of the ride to the border. But not able to sleep and was miserable for the entire time.Arrived at 7 am and took a minibus to the Mozambique border and was shocked to found out the Visa fee was $82. Lonely Planet mentioned visa fees of $25-$70 but that all border visas were $25. Not true so it seems as he pointed out the fee when I mentioned that. But then I noticed if you pay it in Meticals (currency in Mozambique) that the currency conversion amount to $70 US. So I went to ATM and got local currency which I was going to do anyway and saved $12 in the process. Small victory. Then a 2 hour minibus ride to Maputo (1 million population). I was supposed to call the Fatima Backpackers to have them pick me up at the end of the minibus ride. Unfortunately I was not aware that Mozambique's official language is PORTUGUESE, my nemesis in Brazil. Finally an English speaking taxi driver said he would take me there for $12. Tired after not sleeping for 72 hrs and in not a very nice part of town, I reluctantly agreed. Nice hostel.
March 15- 22nd, 2013. (MOZAMBIQUE, Tofu)
I had planned on staying two nights in Maputo and then going to Tofu but then a group of 50 architects on holiday from South Africa arrived at the hostel. Quickly realized there would be little rest here. Asked if I could cancel my 2nd night and appy that to the shuttle/bus service to Tofu which is 7 hrs long. He said yes so up again early at 4:30 am for the 5 am departure to the bus station. Got a seat in the back of the bus on the last row and was surrounded by baggage. Luckily I visited the toilet right before we departed because our 1st toilet stop was 4.5 hrs later. A new personal best or worst, depending on your perspective, for me between bathroom breaks. In Central America you can always depend on at least a break every two hours. Finally arrived and then loaded into a minivan for last 30 minutes to the beach. We were dropped off at Fatima's in Tofu (same owner as Fatimas in Maputo) but though they were on the beach, they did not take Visa or have free internet. Decided to walk around and look as someone I met in Maputo told me about another place. I walked down the path and saw Liquid, a dive shop, my backpacker friend Bill had mentioned and I stopped there to find out about local accommodations. Cindy, one of the owners, asked if I was interested in diving and I said possibly. Told her what I was looking for in accommodations and price and she drove me to two great places. Mozambeats and Turtle Cove. Both had swimming pools, dorm beds for $11 but neither were on the beach. Turtle Cove's dorm only had two beds and the other was currently empty plus free wifi. Sold. Only 15 minute walk to the beach and I have a pool and free wifi. Easter is quickly approaching and may lose my spot then but will deal with that later.
March 22-April 3rd (2013) (Back in Johannesburg)
Decided to end my Mozambique journey early as I was getting tired of the beach, did not have enough funds to dive, and the food was really expensive. So back to Johannesburg to stay at one of my favorite hostels, Mbizi Backpackers, for the remainder of my trip. Mbizi is more like a home and usually there are only a few guests there. I can watch movies all day, eat inexpensive Chinese food, and do all the things that do not cost money. When traveling it is not always about having to do something. I have learned to live my life where I am. It is also great meeting the new travelers who have just arrived at the airport and whose journey is just beginning. I like that I can give those interested advice on places that I have recently been to.
April 3, 2013
AN AMAZING JOURNEY ENDS TODAY as I fly out of Johannesburg, South Africa at 8:25 pm on a direct Delta flight to Atlanta that will last approximately 17 hrs. Getting up at 6 am this morning and a few glasses of wine with dinner on the flight will hopefully help me sleep for at least some of this time. I arrive in New Orleans at 10:35 am and with any luck will be back hugging on my grandkids by Thursday or at least by Friday. While always sad to end a journey, I am really excited to see family and friends again. Though I will be confronted with the reality of losing my couisin, Brad, once again when I get to Natchez.
During this trip I visited South Africa, Zambia, Zimbabwae, Botswana, Namibia, Lesotho, Uganda, Rwanda and Mozambique.
I swam in the "Devils Pool" at Victoria Falls, flew in an Ultralight over Victoria Falls, went on numerous safaris in Botswana, Namibia and Uganda, climbed to top of Table Mountain in Cape Town, went Great White Shark Cage Diving, saw Silverback Mountain Gorillas in Uganda and to the beautiful beaches of Mozambique. JUST AS IMPORTANT, I have met many wonderful people in each country, both natives and fellow travelers.
I end this trip knowing that by everything I have seen and experienced, I will be a better person because of it.
ANOTHER AMAZING JOURNEY BEGINS TOMORROW.
CHAPTER 15. (MEXICO, THAILAND, INDIA, BURMA (MYANMAR), VIETNAM & INDONESIA)
Overview
(January 1 - March 10, 2014)
MEXICO
January 1-8th.
New Years in Merida, Mexico. Next day I took the 6:30 am (2 hour) bus to Chichen Itza to visit the Mayan Ruins, one of the 7 Wonders of the World. Later that afternoon I bus another 3.5 hours to visit my friend Mindi for some fun and sun before my flight to Asia on the 8th from Cancun to Bangkok.
ASIA
January 8, 2014. (Flight to Bangkok, Thailand)
This journey began catching a bus at 8 pm from Playa del Carmen to Cancun after visiting my friend, Mindi, for several days. The bus ride was only 45 minutes but the night in the airport took forever. My flight did not leave until 7am the next morning. And then in the wisdom of Delta Airline, My flight to San Francisco had a 6 hr layover in Atlanta, then another connection in Detroit before arriving LATE in San Francisco at 11:15 pm. Unfortunately my SFO flight to Bangkok leaves at midnight. Somehow I made it. Then the China Airlines flight to Tapeii had some diifficulty so we were late there. They held the connecting flight to Bangkok for us and we made it but those who do NOT use carryon baggage only did not get their baggage. I made it to Bangkok at 11 am on January 10th, a journey of about 39 hrs. The joy of travel. Lol
With protests going on in Bangkok and the fact I don't like Bangkok, I decided to visit the island of Koh Samed or Koh Samet for the 1st time. I had at least a week before my Visa for India will be ready and it was only 4 hrs from Bangkok. I have visited many islands in Thailand and most are more beautiful than here BUT this is probably my favorite. Beautiful beaches, inexpensive rooms and food and its compact. You can walk everywhere. Not as touristy as other islands. Lots of ex pats from Finland, Sweden and Russia along with big crowds of Thais from Bangkok on weekend but not too crowded.
Now that I have gotten my Indian Visa and Myanmar Visa, just waiting for flight to New Delhi on Sunday. Have found something I like in Bangkok, KFC has 2 chicken breasts, fries and drink for $2.95 including tax. Will use savings to let out my waistline. Lol.
Up at 6 am and at gates at 6:45 awaiting the 7 am opening. Amazing views at sunrise. The entrance fee was 750 rupees ($12.50) which is not much for one of 7 wonders of the World. A local guide inside the Taj Mahal kept following me and asking to be my guide. I did not want to pay an extra fee but he kept pointing out a few good places to take pictures so I gave him an adequate tip for his help.
October 3, 2014. (POLAND, Krakow)
October 4, 2014. (UKRAINE, Lviv)
October 7, 2014. (ROMANIA, Brasov)
October 8, 2014. (ROMANIA, Dracula's Castle, Peles Castle, & Transfagarasan Highway)
Visited the famous Dracula Castle and there is nothing in truth to Vlad Dracula (Vlad the Impaler) and any ties to vampirism. Those in Romania have long believed in vampires but Vlad was never considered one. His story was made up by Bram Stoker who supposedly never visited Bran Castle or Romania. Vlad the Impaler was noted for his cruelty impaling many of his enemies on dull posts driven through the body. He also never lived in Bran Castle as it was built only as a staging place for his armies to defend or make war plans. The Castle was made livable as a summer home by Queen Maria who was originally from England. She loved this area but hated extravagance and made the castle a very simple place to live with simple furniture. It did have the 2nd elevator built in the world installed since she had a bad foot and loved to visit the garden below the castle. The elevator was installed INSIDE an abandoned well on the castle grounds. This castle was in stark contrast to Peles Castle where other members of royal family would stay.
October 14, 2014. (BULGARIA, Sofia, Rila Monastery)
October 16, 2014. (MACEDONIA, Orhid)
October 18, 2014. (ALBANIA, Tilaran)
October 19-22nd, 2014. (SERBIA, Belgrade)
October 22 -30, 2014. (CROATIA, Split)
October 25, 2014. (BOSNIA, Mostar (visiting famous Stari Most bridge)
Up at 4:30 am to catch the 6 am and 4 hour bus to Mostar. The road was high in the mountains and while I wanted to sleep, could not keep from watching the winding roads with the 1000 foot drops. The bridge was impressive and enjoyed the "old town".
October 26, 2014. (CROATIA, Krka National Park)
Krka National Park is situated along the Krka River in southern Croatia. It's known for a series of 7 waterfalls. In the south, Skradinski Buk waterfall is flanked by traditional watermills. To the north, a nature trail passes another striking cascade, Roški Slap, and the Krka Monastery, built above ancient Roman catacombs. Visovac Island is home to the 15th-century Franciscan Monastery of Our Lady of Mercy. ― Google
October 27, 2014. (Hvar Town and Fortress)
I took the short ferry ride to Hvar to spend 2 nights to see the sights and visit the Fortress which is well preserved and overlooks the town.
November 1, 2014. (SLOVENIA, Ljubljana and Bled Lake)
Petra (Arabic: البتراء, Al-Batrāʾ; Ancient Greek: Πέτρα) is a historicaland archaeological city in the southern Jordanian governorate of Ma'an that is famous for its rock-cut architecture and water conduit system. Another name for Petra is the Rose City due to the color of the stone out of which it is carved.
Established possibly as early as 312 BC as the capital city of the Nabataeans,[2] it is a symbol of Jordan, as well as Jordan's most-visited tourist attraction.[3] It lies on the slope of Jebel al-Madhbah(identified by some as the biblical Mount Hor[4]) in a basin among the mountains which form the eastern flank of Arabah (Wadi Araba), the large valley running from the Dead Sea to the Gulf of Aqaba. Petra has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985.
The site remained unknown to the Western world until 1812, when it was introduced by Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt. It was described as "a rose-red city half as old as time" in a Newdigate Prize-winning poem by John William Burgon. UNESCO has described it as "one of the most precious cultural properties of man's cultural heritage".[5] See: UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists. Petra was chosen by the Smithsonian Magazine as one of the "28 Places to See Before You Die".[6]
JORDAN (DEAD SEA and Mount Nebo)
November 9, 2014
al-Baḥr al-Mayyit ,[4]), also called the Salt Sea, is a salt lake bordering Jordan to the east, and Palestine and Israel to the west. Its surface and shores are 427 metres (1,401 ft) below sea level,[3] Earth's lowest elevationon land. The Dead Sea is 306 m (1,004 ft) deep, the deepest hypersaline lake in the world. With 34.2% salinity (in 2011), it is also one of the world's saltiest bodies of water, Lake Assal (Djibouti) (34.8%), Lagoon Garabogazköl in the Caspian Sea (up to 35%) . It is 9.6 times as salty as the ocean.[5] This salinity makes for a harsh environment in which animals cannot flourish, hence its name. The Dead Sea is 50 kilometres (31 mi) long and 15 kilometres (9 mi) wide at its widest point.[1] It lies in the Jordan Rift Valley, and its main tributary is the Jordan River.August 19-22, 2015. (France, Biarritz)
August 22, 2015. (France, Bayonne)
August 23, 2015. (Spain, St. Jean Pied de Port)
THE WAY OF ST. JAMES, THE FRENCH WAY
DAY 7 NAVARETTE TO CIRUENA (28.9 KM, 18 MILES)
Left about 6:30 again and it is always beautiful walking for about 30 minutes with mostly moonlight and ocasional flashlight to make sure I am on the right trail. The paths are really well marked and "almost" impossible to get lost. The locals are always willing to help if you need it. I arrived at my destination around 1:30 pm today and found a nice hostel BUT sit outside for a few minutes deliberating on whether to walk a couple extra miles. It was cloudy but there was chance of afternoon thunderstorms. Decided it was enough, checked in and showered, then watched the torrential downpour outside. Hot shower, cold beer and being dry outweigh soaking wet anytime. Did I mention the cold beer is only $1 always. Figured out a few days ago that really good wine at $3 a bottle was not a good thing for someone hiking a lot.
September 1, 2015
DAY 9 BELODARO TO ATAPUERCA (30.2 KM, 18 MILES)
30.2 kilometers or 18 miles. Was going to stop at previous town but hostel was still closed so keep walking. Started at 6:25 am and got there about 1:30 pm. I see there are some artist doing the Camino as once again the sunflowers caught my attention. One said no pain, the other no gain. Lol drizzle almost the entire day but better than scorching sun. Weather has dropped dramatically from 80's at night to 40's. Hiking temps now between 50-70. Nice.
September 2, 2015
DAY 10 ATAPUERCA TO TARDAJOS (31.2 KM, 19 MILES) know walking distance each day according to our map.
DAY 11 TARDAJOS TO CASTROJERIZ (30.2 KM, 19 MILES)
DAY 12 CASTROJERIZ TO FROMISTA
September 5, 2015
DAY 13 FROMISTA TO CARRION (20.2 KM, 12.5 MILES)
DAY 14 CARRION TO LEDIGOS (23 KM, 14 MILES)
September 7, 2015
DAY 15 LEDIGOS TO BERCIANOS (27.7 KM, 17 MILES)
September 8, 2015
DAY 16 BERCIANOS TO MANSILLA de las MULAS (27 KM, 17 MILES)
Really nice Albergue in Mansillas but horrible wifi, probably because 60 people trying to get on.
September 9, 2015
DAY 17 MANSILLA TO LEON (20.4 KM, 12.5 MILES)
Pretty easy day and mostly pain free until I quit walking. Big city. The work on this Cathedral began in 1205 and only took 100 years to complete.
DAY 18 LEON TO VILLAR MAZARIFE (20 KM, 12.5 MILES)
DAY 19 VILLAR MAZARIFE TO SANTIBANEZ (16.8 KM, 10.5 MILES)
DAY 20 SANTIBANEZ TO FONCEBADON (38.6 KM, 24 MILES)
Insanity raised its ugly head today. Rested after 2 short previous days and pain free for 1st time in last 2.5 weeks, I planned on another relatively easy 20 k or 12.5 mile day because I am still 2.5 days ahead of schedule. That was the plan. But NO, that would be too easy and the smart thing to do. After reaching my initial destination I felt so good I decided 5 more kilometers would be fine. Then another 5 kilometers. Then I arrive at a beautiful village with lots of my Camino friends drinking beer at a pub about 2 pm inviting me to stay. My feet kept walking, they were possessed. Lol I continued on hoping there would be a point where I could stop. The next village was 8km or about 2 hours. I could make that. As I got about 30 minutes out of town I noticed the mountains getting closer. The last 2 hours of my 9 hour hike was all UPHILL. Now I remember why the previous town was circled. To rest before the climb. I now realize today was just about pushing limits. Hope I am through with that. Hahaha
DAY 21 FONCEBADON TO MOLINASECA (20.4 KM, 12.5 MILES)
Cannot believe my legs would not hurt after walking 24 miles yesterday. I felt great. Must have been the wine. Jajaja but it was cold and there was a heavy mist for a few hours then light rain. But the scenery the rain caused was beautiful and made it all worthwhile.
DAY 22 MOLINASECA TO CACABELOS (23.4 KM, 14.5 MILES)
Another dreary day but rain held off. Rumors of a lot of rain tomorrow. I stayed at the Municipal Albergue (hostel) that is connected to a beautiful church. Rooms are bazaar but only 2 beds in each room and no bunk beds, thank God. And there wifi which is nice. Also cleaned my clothes with a washing machine. Only 2nd time in 22 days. Usually wash by hand, then hang on a line. Walked by a beautiful castle that belonged to the Templar Knights who job was to protect Pilgrims on their journey. Also in a small village I went into a beautiful small church. Also looks like harvesting of the grapes has begun.
DAY 23 CACABELOS TO VEGA de VALCARCE (25 KM, 15.5 MILES)
Not my favorite day. Rained all night and rained continuously for the 5.5 hours on the Camino. My rain jacket did well but backpack cover, not so much, as everything in it got a little wet. Also, no rain pants so pants legs were soaked. Outlook for rest of the day, tonight and tomorrow is more showers and thunderstorms. I planned this trip for September, the driest month, but did not count on tropical storm from the Atlantic Ocean. PLUS I get to climb up tomorrow about 3000 feet, in the rain. Yeah
September 16, 2015
DAY 24 VEGA de VALCARCE TO LAGUNA de CASTILLO
Unfortunately the weather was as expected. Hiked up 3000 feet in a steady rain and unbelievable wind. Near the top of the mountain I was almost blown to the ground and all hikers were checking to see if everyone was okay. At its worst wind at the top probably was 70-80 mph but not sustained winds. Only did 11.5 kilometers as there were no rooms for another 20 k so did not want to chance it. Surprising what a hot shower and bottle of wine will do for a cold, soaked hiker.
September 17, 2015
DAY 25 LAGUNA de CASTILLO TO TRICASTELA (23.8 KM, 15 MILES)
Much better day than yesterday. Still drizzled the first few hours but not bad and had to climb about 1000 more feet up this morning. But the extra rest yesterday gave me new life and I hiked quickly up and down. Almost averaged 5 km an hour. I was very disappointed today when a public bus pulled next to the trail about halfway to Tricastela and 8 hikers got out to start the trail. This is AFTER the uphill part. I was joking about it at the hostel after checking in to a young girl from Florida and she admitted she was one of them. Seems some had too much wine and decided to take the bus. She said she and others have taken the bus a few times. For me, kinda defeats the purpose of the Camino De Santiago which is a Pilgrimage. I know many just do part one year and part another and I understand there may be injuries but busing town to town when convenient. Do not see why they even came. Had to get that off my chest after WALKING for 25 days.
September 18, 2015
DAY 26 TRICASTELA TO PORTOMARIN (39.7 KM, 24.67 MILES)
DAY 27 PORTOMARIN TO BOENTE (44 KM, 27.3 MILES)
DAY 28 BOENTE TO ARCO de PINO
5.5 hour 15 mile stroll after deciding to take it easy on the last day before Santiago. Only 20 km to Santiago tomorrow but heard the lines to the Compostela , to get our signed Latin competion certificate, will be horrendous when we arrive.
September 21, 2015
DAY 29 ARCO de PINO TO SANTIAGO (20 KM, 12.5 MILES)
September 21st and LAST day to hike the Camino. Left at 7:20 am in the dark to beat the multitudes of Pilgrims finishing today. I arrived at the Cathedral around 11:30 am and was not sure exactly where the Pilgrim Office was located. Out of nowhere appeared the very tall German I had met at several Albergues who showed me how to get there. The line was small because the noon mass was about to start and many Pilgrims were at the Cathedral. Found a great private room at 5 story Albergue for 15 euro. Time for another adventure after a little recuperating. Thanks to all who followed and wished me well.
9/27/15. (SPAIN, Seville)
9-28-15 and 9/29/15. (Spain: Caminito del Rey)
October 1, 2015
CHAPTER 19. CHINA, RUSSIA, GREECE, ITALY, BELGIUM, FRANCE, KENYA, SEYCHELLES and MADAGASCAR
August 14, 2018 to November 17, 2018
CHINA
RUSSIA
August 18, 2018
Flew from Beijing to Vladivostok, Russia at 3 am and arriving about 7am. Navigated security and passport control and caught local bus to main train station, only 5 minute walk to my hostel. Nice city on east coast of Russia and starting point for TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILROAD journey beginning August 18th. I have a 2nd class sleeper berth for the 6 night journey.
ITINERARY
Vladivostok to Irtuska to Moscow (9289 kilometers, 5760 miles)
August 18-27th. (3 nights train, 3 nights Irtuska hostel, 3 nights train)
August 18th and 19th
I spent the day walking around Vladivostok until my 19:10 departure (everyone uses miliary time outside US). Got settled in my "side sleeper berth" instead of compartment sleeper group. My lack of thoroughly reading my Lonely Planet "Trans, - Siberian Railroad" resulted in my sleeper berth being 4 INCHES SHORTER than compartment berths. Serious problems since I stretch out while sleeping. The sleeper side berth transforms to 2 chairs and table during the day, if you wish. Kept as bunk most time since eating, occasional expensive beer in dining car and sleeping consume most of day.
The Provodnista, female train attendant, are the WARDENS of our sleeping car. Of course, no English, just have to figure out what she is saying and quick. My saving grace on this trip was the INSTANT COFFEE I brought (hot water available in boiler at end of each car) and SNACKS. Coffee was daily breakfast, lunch was 2 "pigs in a blanket purchased from locals at train stops, and dinner in dining car. Restaurant on train was kinda pricey, always had grilled pork with boiled or fried potatoes and 2 beers for about $16.
August 20th
Back is now aching due to limited space sleeping and lot of new travelers arrived at 3 am. Also lot getting off. Scenery was nice and diverse with mountains in background and lots of forests, but did not see lot of farming. Russians on train know very little, if any, English. Met 2 travelers who spoke English which was little comforting. Also started keeping a journal which I had done the 1st 6 years or so of my travels but had abandoned. No longer any clue what time it is. My body says make coffee but still no daylight. Made coffee. Will travel through 7 time zones on this trip.
August 21, 2018 (Irkutsk)
Split my Trans-Siberian trip up by stopping in Irkutsk, starting point for Lake Baikal visit. Actually decided time constraints would not allow me to visit the touristy island on Lake Baikal, so saw many beautiful sights in Irkutsk. There was also a well marked walking trail that pointed out most sights in the city. Nice to have shower after 3 nights on train which has no showers. Back on train at 3:40 a.m on 24th for final 3 nights to Moscow.
August 24, 2018
Back on train. Unfortunately the departure was at 3:40 am and I was too cheap to pay for hostel so spent 9 hours at train station. POOR DECISION BY ME. lol This sleeper car is completely different from the 1st leg which had mostly older travelers. This train is LOADED WITH KIDS and parents coming back from camp or vacation or something. Also no electric outlet by my bunk as in previous train. ONE OUTLET near toilet and everyone in our car is waiting for opportunity to use it. 2 South Koreans girls, one who speaks English, in bunk next to me so opportunity for conversation. Both studying at University in Seoul and said their studies are BASED SOLELY ON TESTING. I no longer worry about sleeping all night since impossible and just NAP PERIODICALLY ALL DAY like rest on the train. Last night on train welcomed the arrival of 3 LOUD snoring men near my bunk. (Thank you Bose noise cancelling head phones)
Finally arrived about 11 am, navigated the metro (subway), located hostel and checked in. LAUNDRY AND SHOWER NOT AT TOP OF MY LIST.
Glad I did the trip BUT other than challenging, not overly impressive.
August 27, 2018. (Moscow)
Just completed the 2nd half of Trans Siberian Railroad from Irkutsk to Moscow. Took metro to Kremlin Lights Hostel and now 3 nights to recover. My 1st visit was to KREMLIN which is next to hostel and then in afternoon I visited Red Square.
CHAPTER 20. IRELAND, SCOTLAND, DENMARK, SWEDEN, ESTONIA, ITALY, FRANCE, SPAIN and PORTUGAL
(May 21- July 30, 2019)
CHAPTER 21. (GREECE, ITALY, ISRAEL and EASTERN EUROPE)
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